Toshiba Satellite M35X and Satellite A75 power jack and battery charge problem
A bad connection between DC-IN power jack on the system board and the system board is a very common problem with Toshiba Satellite M35X and Toshiba Satellite A70/A75 notebooks. If your laptop is out of warranty, then you can fix the problem by resoldering DC-IN jack on the system board. If it’s still under warranty, it would be fixed at no charge to you.
Problem symptoms:
- Laptop randomly shuts down without any warning.
- Power LED and battery charge LED start flickering when you wiggle the power cord or the AC adapter tip on the back or your laptop.
- The battery will not get charged.
- When you plug AC adapter, the laptop appears to be dead and there is no LED activity at all (DC-IN jack on the system board is broken).
To fix the problem, you have to take your laptop apart, remove the system board to resoleder or replace the DC-IN jack. Toshiba Satellite M35X and Toshiba Satellite A70/A75 disassembly guides will help you to remove the system board. Take a closer look at the power jack on the system board with a magnifying glass. In most cases you get the power problem because of a bad connection between the DC jack and the system board, you’ll see a crack between the DC jack connector and the system board.
Here is an example of Toshiba Satellite M35X power jack. The crack occurs between the DC jack pin and the system board.
In some cases the connection is good, but the DC jack is bad itself. You can find a new DC jack for Toshiba Satellite M35X and Toshiba Satellite A70/A75 laptops here. Search for DC jack M35X or DC jack A75.
How to resolder laptop power jack yourself.
UPDATE:
Sometimes, after you replace the jack, you can see that the system board doesn’t get power at all. The battery will not charge and the power LED will not light when you plug in the AC adapter. So, here’s a possible explanation.
When a connection between the positive pin and the motherboard breaks (cracks), the power jack gets loose. You can feel it when you plug in the adapter plug. A loose power jack can damage the trace inside the hole in the system board. Take a look at the picture.
As you see, the positive pin goes through the hole in the system board and you solder it on the top side. Right? What if the trace between the top side and the bottom side is broken somewhere inside the hole? I’ve seen it before a few times. In this case everything looks nice and clean on the top side. When you plug in the AC adapter, you get normal voltage readings between “+” and “-“ pins on the top side, but the power DOESN’T go to the motherboard at all, because there is no connection between the top and bottom sides. Test with a multimeter if there is a connection between the top and the bottom.
If the trace inside the hole is broken you still can fix it. You can run a wire to connect the top and the bottom sides. Be careful not to short something on the board.
Update:
Here’s another solution to fix the power jack problem, it shows how to relocate the power jack outside the laptop base. Check it out here: Toshiba Satellite A75 failed power jack workaround.
When you repair a loose power jack, it’s a good idea to check the jack on both sides of the motherboard. When you remove the top cover from a Toshiba Satellite A70/A75 laptop you can see only points where the jack is soldered to the motherboard as it shown on the second picture in this post, but you cannot see the jack itself as it shown on the first picture.
Removing the motherboard from Satellite A70/A75 laptop is a good idea because the jack itself might has a broken “+” pin, as it shown on the picture below. If the “+” broke off the base, you’ll have to replace the jack.
UPDATE:
Today I received another well written and well documented guide about fixing Toshiba Satellite M35X power connector issue. This guide was submitted by Stephen Macuch. Thank you Stephen for great pictures and detailed instructions.
If you are tired of fixing your laptop and want to sell it for parts you can do it here:
Any Notebook Part - free classifieds. Only laptop stuff.
Entry Filed under: Toshiba Laptop Problems
February 3rd, 2006 at 8:53 am
excellent! am fixing the prob right now. thank you.
February 5th, 2006 at 11:22 am
This is great information! I have a M35X and an A15-S. I used the instructions for opening the A15-S to try to fix the DC jack, but have not yet resolved it - the Jack is not mounted directly to the board on this one.
In the process, I may have caused another problem, though. When removing the keyboard, it looks like the piece the tape connection slides into has pulled away from the board at one end. It’s not completely detached, but appears to be loose one one side.
Is there any way to repair this? I don’t yet know if the keyboard is functional because I can’t get it to power up.
Thanks for all the help,
Tim
February 5th, 2006 at 11:56 am
In A15-S the DC jack is not a part of the system board. If you want to replace the DC jack, you should find DC in harness. I believe the Toshiba part number for DC-IN harness is: P000377330 (or P000383390 backward compatible). You can search on eBay. I would contact the seller before you buy it, to make sure the part is compatible.
Now about the keyboard. To disconnect the keyboard cable correctly, you have to open the plastic lock securing the cable first and then pull the cable. You have to be very, very careful. In your case, I’m not sure if the lock is broken or just loose. Even if it’s broken on one side it should work fine (I’ve done it myself a few times). You have to carefully open the lock, slide the keyboard cable inside the connector and lock it.
February 5th, 2006 at 12:17 pm
Thanks again! Is it likely the harness or the connection at the board? I know there is no way of knowing until tested, but wondered if the board connections tend to break down due to heat.
On the keyboard connection, I could not get anything to “unlock” and eventually, the tape slid out of the connector. I got it to slide back in, but on the base where it attaches to the board it is loose on one end and can actually be pulled up off the board slightly. I can’t tell if the connection to the board has tiny pins which go through to the other side or not, so I don’t know if I’ve damaged the connection.
I’ll probably just wait until I get power restored and see if the keyboard works before I go messing around with it any more. If for some reason the connector at the board has been damaged can is be re-attached or would the entire board need to be replaced?
Thanks so much for the help,
Tim
February 5th, 2006 at 1:12 pm
It’s hard to say. It’s possible that DC jack is bad itself. I’ve seen a few A15 laptops with damaged DC jacks and the power problem was fixed by replacing DC jacks. I cannot say exactly without testing the laptop.
I think that’s a good idea to wait until you get power and then test the keyboard. I wouldn’t guess until I test it.
February 6th, 2006 at 1:50 am
[…] This email I received from one guy last evening. He had a problem with DC jack on his Toshiba Satellite 1900 laptop and fixed the problem by resoldering the DC jack on the system board. The problem is very similar to Toshiba Satellite M30X, M35X, A70 and A75 power jack issue. […]
February 8th, 2006 at 12:28 pm
I have the same problem with a Satellite A30, bad DC jack. So I took it apart (I used cj2600 guide to take it apart, thanx).
I first tried to resolder it, and as I usually do on al my “projects” I did a simple continuity test with my multimetre - nothing. Not only was the solder connection broken, but the pin from the back just fell of when I desoldered it and took it out.
So my question is, is it the same DC jack as the M35X or A75? I figure I’ll get it on e-bay, but I just want to make sure. Or if someone has a part number for it, then I could try to find one somewhere else?
Thanx in advance for your help.
February 8th, 2006 at 12:45 pm
The DC jack doesn’t have a part number because it’s a part of the system board. I just searched on eBay for A30 DC jackand found plenty of them. By description on eBay it should be the same DC jack for the following laptops: Toshiba Satellite A10, A15, A30, A60 and A65.
February 10th, 2006 at 2:22 am
I have not completely disassembled the A15 and see no bad solder joints (there’s really no place they could be bad the way the plug for the harness is attached). Since I can’t test the unit while it’s in pieces, I detached the harnes plug from the board and ran it through the body of the laptop so I could try to see if the harness had a short.
When I got it back together, I still have no power at all. When I try to wiggle the plug within the harness sticking out the back of the laptop, I can’t even get the power light to flicker or anything. Even if the harness is bad, it seems like at least enough contact would be made to get the power light to blink on at least occationally.
I assumed the problem was at the DC jack/harness since prior to the laptop failing, wiggling the cord while it was attached would allow it to begin charging temporarily until finally I could no longer get any power.
Is there something I’m missing?
February 10th, 2006 at 9:18 am
My previous post should read: “I have NOW” instead of “I have NOT” completely disassembled the A15. Sorry.
February 10th, 2006 at 4:01 pm
Try to minimize the system. Leave just the system board, the DC jack harness and connect it to the AC adapter. The power LED should light, that means the system board is getting power. If there is not power LED light, than either DC jack, AC adapter or the system board itself is bad.
February 16th, 2006 at 6:49 pm
Turns out the power adapter was bad. Good news: the heatsink is now clean and won’t overheat anymore. Bad news: I detached part of the keyboard socket from the main board while trying to release the locks on it.
The pins are tiny, and don’t appear to be soldered to the board on the back, but must have been mounted at the factory or something. At this point, the left 1/4 of the keyboard seems to work, but the rest of it does not.
Is there any chance I can solder these pins back on? Is there a really tiny-point soldering iron available? The way I look at it, I may as well give it a shot. The keyboard is useless now anyway, so if I mess it up I would either use an external keyboard or just use it as a DVD player.
I know this question is off topic by now, but I don’t know where else to post it. Thanks so much for all the help.
February 16th, 2006 at 10:26 pm
The keyboard cable is not soldered to the system board. It’s connected to the system board via the keyboard connector. The keyboard connector on the system board has two parts. One part (top) is connected to the system board permanently and second part (bottom) is a moving part and works as a connector lock. If I understand right, in your case the bottom part is broken.
It’s hard to give a good advice because I cannot see how bad the damage is but you can try next. Insert the keyboard cable inside the connector on the system board as far as you can. After that put the broken bottom part under the keyboard cable and move it toward the top part, trying to lock it. The keyboard cable should get jammed between the top and bottom parts and it should be enough to make a good connection. After that put some sticky tape over the connector.
February 17th, 2006 at 10:19 am
Looks like it must be the top part that has pulled away from the board. The connector still can be locked to the tape cable, but the connector itself has pulled away from the board at one end so that the connector pins appear detached from the board.
This is what I’m trying to correct, and why I was hoping I could somehow solder the pins back. From what you said, it does not sound too hopefull for me, but since I have nothing to lose, I would like to at least try to re-attach the connector - I just don’t know if there is any way to get contact between the tiny pins and the board now that they have come loose.
Thanks again for all the help.
February 17th, 2006 at 11:58 am
Wahl Clipper Company makes a very nice portable soldering iron that comes in several models. You can get some very small tips for them in conical or flat styles. I have seen them for sale on the MCM Electronics and Mouser Web sites. Wahl has them on thier site as well but I do not recall if you can purchase directly from them. The product itsel is called Isotip and is reasonably priced in my opinion. I have the DC in jack problem on my Sattelite P15 but see no dissasembly instructions for it. Looks like the P30 might be close enough to get the job done. It is not bad enough yet to warrant tearing it apart but I know I will have to do it eventually. I’m thinking that the input jack should be available from an electronics parts distributor like Mouser but I have not looked into it yet.
Good Luck.
February 19th, 2006 at 8:46 am
My m35x had the jack repaired/replaced? by an authorized service before the initial warranty was up. after 3-4 months stared to exhibit sudden shutoff, would not restart…no HD activity. Power button would turn on, but system never went any further…no video, no HD…Opened up the unit and noticed that part of the repair consist of a black epoxy around the base of the jack, covering the solder points and components within 1/8 to /14 inch of the jack. Noticed what looks like severe corrosion between the jack and the CPU cooling fan plug.I’m thinking the adhesive they used caused a breakdown of some component and caused my present problem. The job they did looks “neat”, neaning as professional as gluing something can be. Must have been a service tip for a long lasting repair. Now I’m faced with a replacement of the main board at my expense, and I can’t prove what caused the problem. Any way I can post some pics or send you some?
Thanks,
Kevin
February 19th, 2006 at 9:48 pm
A took apart my wifes A75-S209 in an effort to fix what i believed was a bad DC jack. I check conninity and all three pins that as on the board get power from the O.d. ring and not the center post is this correct or is the Dc jack defective.
February 20th, 2006 at 1:04 am
Hi Kevin,
Most likely the service center did not fix the DC jack and replaced the entire system board. Toshiba apply black epoxy around the base of the DC jack to strengthen the DC jack after they replace or resolder it. I have seen a lot of system board failing because of the DC jack even after it was repaired. In your case I would check the memory module first because the problem you described might occur because a bad memory. You can check it with Memtest 86+ test
February 24th, 2006 at 3:03 pm
I’ve had an A70 laptop for about a year and a half now and this problem has happened at least 4 times to me. Is there any possible way to make sure it doesn’t break every few months or am I stuck with a bunch of spare parts to sell and get a customized desktop?
February 24th, 2006 at 3:23 pm
Hey Mike,
Unfortunately, you do not a lot of options. If this laptop is still under Toshiba warranty, take it to a Toshiba Authorized Repair Center. If it is not under warranty, buy a new DC-IN jack and take the laptop to a professional repair shop to re-solder the jack. If they do a good job and re-solder it properly, it should last for a long time. You just have to be very careful with the power plug.
February 27th, 2006 at 2:27 am
Hi,
I have the same problem with the DC-IN jack the middle pin as snapped off also I have damaged the 2 USB ports on the back I need to replace these is it easy to do?
Cheers
Dave
February 27th, 2006 at 8:25 am
Hi Dave,
It is definitely possible to replace the DC-IN jack on the system board and it is pretty easy if you know how to solder. You have to buy a new DC jack, remove the old DC jack from the system board (remove the solder from 4 pins) and put in a new one.
About USB ports. It is also possible to replace the USB ports on the back. The only problem is to find a new part. USB ports are a part of the system board and I do not know where you can buy them. I guess it is possible to buy a bad system board for cheap and take USB ports from it. Re-soldering USB ports would be more difficult because it has about 14 pins.
February 28th, 2006 at 10:41 pm
I promise I’ll quit bugging you after this last question (see post #14). I seem to have pulled the keyboard connector away from the main board - not the lock, the actual connection between the board and the locking mechanism. Only the left side of the keyboard is functioning now. I want to re-attach the pins which are loose, but don’t know if it is possible. Are the pins too tiny to solder? Could I possibly use a drop of super glue?
Any input would be greatly appreciated. I currently am using an external keyboard. If I have to replace the main board, how much would that part cost?
Thanks.
February 28th, 2006 at 11:02 pm
Hi Tim, you are not bugging me at all.
Toshiba says: “If the ZIF connector on the system board is broken, the system board has to be replaced”. If you give me the model-part number of your laptop (For example - Satellite A15-S129, PSA10U-0ZH6MV) I can find the system board part number. You can search on eBay by this part number and if you are lucky you can buy it for cheap. About three month ago I bought a system board for Toshiba Satellite 1135-S1553 for $49, still works fine.
March 1st, 2006 at 1:09 am
Hi CJ,
I have a toshiba a60, I am stuck trying to get the dvd drive out. I have read the disassembly manual and it says about the three hidden screws. I have looked into the holes circled in the picture and can’t see any screws any ideas?
Cheers
Dave
March 1st, 2006 at 6:54 am
Ah, take no notice it just pushes out.
Thanks
Dave
March 3rd, 2006 at 10:11 pm
The serial number appears to be: A15-S1292, PSA10U-28RJRV. The 7th character is sort of scratched off, but I’m pretty sure the numbers are correct.
Thanks so much. After destroying my perfectly good laptop only to find out the adapter/cord was all that was bad, I’m finally learning how to take these little things apart - and sometimes even to put them back together.
March 4th, 2006 at 1:44 pm
Hi Tim,
There is only one system board listed for your Toshiba Satellite A15. The part number is P000387490. I just searched eBay for this part number and found one working system board for $24.99 + $14.45 shipping (1day23hours left).
If you decide to replace the system board in Toshiba Repair Center, they will charge your approximately $230 for the system board + $120 labor.
March 4th, 2006 at 4:36 pm
Thanks for the fix, resoldered both sides. Works great, was about to send this out.
Thanks
Paul
March 9th, 2006 at 4:55 pm
I have a A75-S206 and having the same trouble. These tips are really handy. However, I have never taken apart a labtop computers before.
My warranty just expired also. Does any body know of a good place to get this fix? I would like to fix this myself,but i am not sure can handle this. Some of the places I’ve been to said I may have to replace my system board. Is that true? I hoping this works instead
Thanks everyone for all your tips
March 11th, 2006 at 12:29 pm
Thank You very much for all the information above.
I was able to fix power connection problem of my Toshiba M35X.
Thanx,
Vaibhav
March 11th, 2006 at 2:00 pm
I’m looking for a service manual for a Toshiba Satellite 1135-S1553.
A friend of mine had one and the modem went out on him. He decided to play repairman and toasted it somehow. I’m not sure what he did… but now when you turn it on, it starts to boot up for about 10-15 seconds and then shuts off. I’m suspecting the processor or heat sink though that’s pretty fast to get to hot.
Anyway, he’s given it to me, and I’d like to tear into it and see if I could fix it…. I may also be looking for a system board for it - if you have any ideas.
Thanks
March 11th, 2006 at 3:11 pm
Hey Gary,
I have exactly the same Toshiba laptop myself, but I have not created a guide for it yet. It is possible that he forgot to connect the CPU fan cable on the system board and didn’t seat the CPU properly. Read comment 14 in this post may be you experience the same problem.
BTW, I was able to find a good system board for my laptop (Toshiba part number K000004100) on eBay for $49. I bought it about 5 months ago and it still works fine.
March 11th, 2006 at 9:25 pm
well today i thought i’d troubleshoot my tosh\sat
charging intermitantly, grabbed my meter figured cheap cable, figured wrong, started looking for advice and read your thread.
if you can tell me where to find directions\accompanied (pictures), for safely dismantling case and board, i b most appreciative.
( dont want to be that keboard fellow)
i’m thinkin i might take a stab, hopefuly i can make it better not worse.
lookin at your diagram i am toying with just solder sucking & remove the jack and making a power dongle, those retards should have had a sranded wire interface with a seperatly mounted jack, predertemined wearpoint i guess, you know people are going to buffet that jack and it should have been a right anle plug as well………arghhhh
never submitted to one of these, hope we can connect thanks :)……..tekweary
March 11th, 2006 at 9:37 pm
found these…..
http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/ToshibaM35X/satM35X_1.htm
http://www.laptopjacks.com/product.php?id=Toshiba
are these the paths to enlightenment?? whadaya think??
March 12th, 2006 at 12:07 am
me again, do i really have to go through all the steps
daigramed in this link?
http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/ToshibaM35X/satM35X_1.htm
tnx:)
March 12th, 2006 at 12:18 am
You have to go through all the steps if you want to remove the system board and replace or resolder the DC jack. After you remove the system board you can check if the DC jack has to be replaced or just resoldered.
March 12th, 2006 at 11:32 am
cj2600, appreciate your timely reply,
think i’ll give it a go.
much thanks
March 15th, 2006 at 10:36 pm
Hello, I desperatley need some help/advice.I have a Toshiba a-70 PSA70C-RT100E. I too had the pwer problem and had a repair guy solder it 3 times( it kept loosing pwer after a few months). I did research and found sites like yours to help about this, so i opened my laptop and soldered it, it worked fine for few months, then the old flickering /then no pwer problem came back.I studied what a new power jack looked like and saw right away the PIn coming from the back was broke off.I bought a new jack, took off the old one, cleared the old solder, made sure the pin holes were open/clean, re -soldered the jack on and then appled Apoxy to the base around the jack, as recommended by some expert laptop guys .I know i did it right, the jack can only go on one way, and Today I finished that.Assembled my laptop, and plugged her in, and it was a nice tight fit and all three LED’s lit up, the fns started…BUT my screen was black-not dim, black.I disasembled it again thinking i missed a plug or something.it was fine, then i checked sites for black screen problems and disassembled my LCD and sge looks fine, nothing unplugged, no dirty plugs.Assembled it again.Same problem, I tried to open my DVd drive and she wouldnt open, no light either, then i looked at my wi-fi switch and turned it off and on, also no light.Im at a loss as what it could be.Im quite experianced on computers, and im just at a loss, ive never had a dead motherbaord, so Im terrorfied that that is the problem.BTw the harddrive is making noise, as the fans, and the power light are fine.PLease someone help, if i take it to a repair guy , hell KILL me with a bunch of crap i need, Im a single mom, i cant afford to be tooken to the bank if i could fix this myself.Pleas efell free to email me Irish_gal@sympatico.ca
March 16th, 2006 at 9:30 pm
Hi Clarissa,
Is it possible that you didn’t lock the CPU in the socket if you had to remove it? Did you check if the memory is seated properly? Try to connect the laptop to an external monitor and start it up. If your system board is good and all connectors are seated properly, you should get an external video. By connecting the external monitor you can bypass the LCD module.
As a last resort, I would take the laptop apart and leave only the system board (it has onboard memory) with the CPU (do not remove fans and heatsink) and try to turn it on with an external monitor. If you get video, start adding parts one by one. If you have no video, either the system board or the CPU is bad.
March 18th, 2006 at 11:19 pm
[…] The power jack issue. The laptop will not charge the battery. The laptop LED flicker when you wiggle the power jack. To fix this problem you have to replace or resolder the DC jack on the system board. […]
March 19th, 2006 at 7:15 pm
I have an m35x which had the power problem. I followed the directions here and fixed the solder joint. Thanks. However, when i powered the computer backup, the monitor is showing wrong colors and has a fuzziness. I tried replugging the two feeds to the monitor. I am slightly confused about a black ground with an eyelet. I don’t remember disconnecting this wire but it does not seem right.
thanks
March 19th, 2006 at 7:27 pm
Had the same DC input problem with my Toshiba M35. Of course the warranty had expired the month before. Remebered I bought it on an AMEX card. Turns out they have a buyer assurance plan. I called them and they put me in touch with Micro Medics. They overnight me a box to put the laptop in paid for the shipping and sent it back to me in 2 days with a new DC Input port.
Same program may be available on other cards, Anyway, saved a few bucks for sure.
March 20th, 2006 at 2:11 am
Hi,
i have a75-209 model and at first, I had the problem with static electricity discharge. Then, recently the laptop started to crash suddenly. Then, while connected to AC power, it suddenly started to run on batteries. At first, I was able to wiggle the cord and it would switch back to AC. Lately, it’s close to impossible to use AC power.
Now, when I switch the laptop off, the battery charge indicator lights orange light constantly, and it doesn’t turn green. Then, when I switch the laptop on, the battery charge indicator turns off. I tried using laptop on AC power with batteries removed, but it doesn’t switch on at all.
The AC power light indicitor turns green whenever I plug AC power in.
Are the symptoms of my laptop consistant with the problem described in this article? I have not opened it, will probably do so, it’s just strange that the battery charge indicator switches orange when the laptop is switched off and plugged in AC.
March 21st, 2006 at 6:20 pm
Hey Gordan,
I am pretty sure you have a problem with the DC jack. I have seen the same pattern as you described many times. The battery is getting charged when AC power is connected, but the battery charge LED goes off as soon as you turn on the laptop.
March 23rd, 2006 at 9:02 am
thanks cj2600.. the problem is now fixed and everything works fine. thanks to all of you who compiled this page and the one about dismantling the laptop! greetings from croatia!
April 1st, 2006 at 10:36 am
hi
when i put my dc cable in the jack the motherboard becomes heat
April 4th, 2006 at 11:26 am
I am a reseller of laptops and I get a lot of problem laptops. I have noticed this condition on a couple of laptops, right now on the bench is a toshiba P15 laptop. When the the battery is in and I hook the laptop up to an ac adapter I get nothing, no signs of power. Now when I take out the battery and plug in the ac adapter I get a buzzing/clicking noise from within the laptop. Could this be as simple as a dc jack replacement or is it something more serious? Now that I have this new test I am finding this to be common with some of the doa laptops I have been getting in.
April 4th, 2006 at 12:46 pm
Hi Ted,
Now about a power issue. I guess it might be caused by a bad battery. Try to swap the battery. Might be the battery is shortening something, making the laptop appear to be “dead”.
First of all, I would try to eliminate the buzzing/clicking noise. Try to remove the hard drive, the optical drive, the wireless card, etc… one by one and see if you can get rid of the noise. If you still having the same noise when only the system board, the CPU and the memory left, then I would suspect that the system board is bad. Make sure that the noise is not coming from the fan.
I think it is not the DC jack problem, because most of the time you can get some LED activity by wiggling the power plug, but you say it appears to be “dead” completely.
Have you checked the AC adapter itself?
April 4th, 2006 at 2:56 pm
Thanks for your help. I have had another laptop with similar issue and the buzzing/clicking seems to be coming from a 1″x1″ chip set on the board marked intel. Don’t know if its a video chip or not. Its not the processor, its one that is soldered/mounted to the board. Its definately not the fan, doesn’t have a hard drive installed. I guess I will keep selling them as is. I know people out there are fixing them because they are buying them from me left and right, just wish I knew the trick to fixing them.
April 4th, 2006 at 2:58 pm
Oh, the adapter is fine, its a kensington universal 120 watt. I test 10 -20 laptops with it a day. Check me out on ebay under e-b-s
April 4th, 2006 at 10:15 pm
[…] Poorly designed DC-IN power jack on the system board. Overtime, the DC power jack gets disconnected from the system board. If it happens, you will experience a problem with charging the battery or the laptop may not start at all. Read more: Toshiba Satellite M35X and A75 power jack and battery charge problem. Toshiba Satellite 1900 laptop looses power and shuts down without warning. […]
April 6th, 2006 at 5:36 am
After I had used your guide to disassemble the A70 and fix this problem I found this post about the power jack. I must say you are right on with this one. The power jack was exactly as you described it, cracked at the base where it connects to the system board. Too bad I did the soldering before finding this page. It would have saved me some time..
A million thanks!
.fri
April 7th, 2006 at 4:10 am
Hey,
Can you tell me exactly where to solder for a A75 - S211 DC jack. Is it the same as the M35X. I took apart the laptop to see if the Flickering LED / Shutdown prob was due to the DC Jack and it seems so, as the jack seems to be moving around loosely.
Thanks for your help in advance
April 7th, 2006 at 8:11 pm
Hey Gary,
Toshiba Satellite A70 and A75 has the same jack as Satellite M35X. When you remove the system board from the laptop, you can wiggle the DC jack and see witch connector has to be resoldered. When I resolder the DC jack, I usually remove it from the system board first. Then I clean up all four legs and apply new solder coat on it. After that I clean traces on the system board (both sides) and apply new coat on them too. Finally, I put the DC jack back in place and solder all 4 legs.
95% the DC jack fails because the “+” leg looses the connection with the trace.
April 10th, 2006 at 12:29 pm
I’m having trouble finding a DC-in jack for a Satellite A45-S150.
PSA4OU-OFOQ4V
Do you have one or know where I can obtain one?
Thank you
And great site, too !!
April 10th, 2006 at 8:36 pm
Hey Frank,
That is a tough one. I just looked up on Toshiba Tech website a diagram for Toshiba Satellite A45. Even though the DC jack is not connected to the system board directly, it is still a part of the system board. The DC jack harness is soldered to the system board. I went through the part list for this model and didn’t find the DC jack listed. I also tried to search eBay without any luck. Sorry, cannot help.
April 15th, 2006 at 6:51 am
I have a Toshiba Satelite P30, and have had the same problem with the DC jack, I have stripped it down and resoldered the faulty pin. When I switched it back on first time it worked fine until the battery went flat. Now when i plug it in, the DC LED on the front flashes (approx 2 or 3 times a second) and the fans go on and off. but I cannot charge the battery or switch the machine on.
Does this mean I have not fixed the problem at all? Or have I done more harm than good by having a go myself?
Any help appreciated!
April 15th, 2006 at 10:55 am
Hi Dave,
You can try to remove the battery and try to start the laptop from the AC adapter. If your laptop will not run when the battery is removed then I guess you didn’t re-solder the jack correctly. When I re-solder the jack, I usually test it before I put inside the laptop. To test if it works properly you need only the system board, the CPU with heatsink and fans attached and the memory. Connect it to an external monitor and plug the AC adapter. When you turn it on you should get a video on the external monitor. If you cannot start it, check the DC jack.
April 15th, 2006 at 12:55 pm
I have a Toshiba Satellite A75, and it has been having the overheating problem and the DC jack problem. A friend and I opened it and cleaned out the heatsink. We also tried to resolder the DC jack back in. When I turned it on and attached the adapter, I smelt a burning smell, and now my laptop does not power up at all. Would you happen to know what is wrong with it?
April 16th, 2006 at 7:32 am
cj2600…thanks.
I’m pretty sure I’ve fixed the problem with the DC jack, I’ve proved it by doing simple continuity checks with my multimeter. But I think I have put another fault on somewhere, it looks like it is shorting across the cooling fans. Any ideas?
April 17th, 2006 at 6:45 am
Had the DC power issue with my Toshiba M35X. Bought a new DC jack off of ebay for $9.99, took the laptop apart as per the instructions at(http://www.irisvista.com/tech/laptops/ToshibaM35X/satM35X_1.htm). Removed the old jack and reinstalled the new one and everything works perfectly. The instructions are excellent. Thanks!
I forgot to look at the part number for the motherboard on the M35X-S349. Wondering if you might have it. If so please let me know.
Thanks again for the help and confidence.
April 17th, 2006 at 2:36 pm
Is there a manual that tells me how to get into this thing? I’m trying to fix my Toshiba Satellite A75 S276. I am having the same DC In connector problem that seems to go with these machines. If I can get to it, I can resolder it. But I can’t get to it and can’t find a manual or procedure that tells me how to get the thing open. Anyone know where I can find something like that?
April 17th, 2006 at 9:20 pm
Hey Danny,
Sure I can look up a system board part number for your laptop. There are over 10 different boards for Toshiba Satellite M35X-S346. To find out exactly witch one is for your laptop I also need model-part number. You can find it on the bottom of the laptop, something like PSA72U-01400U.
April 17th, 2006 at 9:27 pm
Hi David,
Toshiba Satellite A70 and A75 disassembly guide .
Actually you can find a link to the disassembly guide I’ve created for Satellite A70 and A75 in this post. Just in case if you do not want to scroll up click on the following link.
April 19th, 2006 at 12:44 am
HOW DO YOU TEST THE DC JACK TO SEE IF ITS FAULTY?
I have a multimeter, but don’t know how to use it or where to test it for connectivity. I have a Toshiba Satellite A65. It shows the same syptoms of DC jack failure (no power or power light, battery dead and won’t recharge). But unlike everyone else’s solutions, I cannot see any physical problems with the jack or its solder points so therefore I dont want to desolder and replace the jack if its not the problem. And fiddling with the multimeter, I think I got a voltage reading from both sides of the pin (while plugged in) on the board. Could the DC jack still be the problem?
April 19th, 2006 at 7:57 pm
hi all,, i need to know what motherboard i need for a toshiba m35x-s149 other numbers are psa72u-00t00u i tried a replacement DC jack to no avail. time for a new board. but i dont really want to pay 250+ dollars, and i want to get the correct one for my laptop. any help would be greatly appreciated. thx in advance.
April 19th, 2006 at 8:35 pm
Hi Dave,
There are two system boards listed for your laptop:
K000019660 and K000020370. You can install both motherboard. The price would be about the same.
April 19th, 2006 at 8:49 pm
Hey Garcete,
If you cannot see any physical damage on the power jack pins and you get a voltage on the exit, then most likely the jack is not your problem. With the power jack failure, most of the time you can get some LED activity when you wiggle the power plug. I might have a bad motherboard.
Check if the AC adapter provides a proper voltage. I believe you should get 19V for this model.
April 19th, 2006 at 11:26 pm
Thats not what I wanted to hear
but just to make sure….
I tested the voltage from the AC suppy… little over 19v.
I plugged in the ac supply (without the battery and with it) and put the positive lead on the pin you show in the pic above with the connection problem… 19v. I even put the positive lead on the bottom side of the jack (like the 2nd pic above) and got 19v…. by the way, the negative lead was on the heatsink… metal, correct?
Did I correctly test the DC jack to ensure it is not the problem?
Is there any way I can test the motherboard in the same fashion with voltage tests? and where?
*I cannot find websites, pics, or anything on the schematics or voltage points for this motherboard and I read all over the place that people have replaced the motherboard just to have the new ones be faulty or become faulty in a short period of time! So again, I want to fully test everything before unnecessarily buying parts.
April 20th, 2006 at 11:35 pm
Garcete,
You did everything right. If there is a voltage on the exit from the DC jack but the system board is “dead”, then you also can check the fuse. It should be located close to the jack. If the fuse is “open” then probably you can repair the motherboard by replacing the fuse (never done it myself). If the fuse is good, then most likely you have to replace the system board. We do not repair motherboards on the component level, we replace them.
April 21st, 2006 at 2:53 pm
awww crap!
the only thing I found that was “fuse-like” was a little tiny white rectangle (smaller than a tic-tac) that said fuse501 on the bottom side of the board. I have no idea how to test it and I sparked it accidentally when I tried!
I still have voltage though from the DC jack to the motherboard. I also have voltage for the pins that connect to the battery. What I cannot find is voltage on the power button… even when I have it pressed. But again, I might be checking the voltage wrong.
Could the powerbutton be the problem?
By the way, thanks so much for continuing to give advice on this. I cannot believe Toshiba has such faulty computers! By getting us to turn in the computers for repair, they are just profiting on their own faulty equipment! If you had paypal donations, I definitely would give a donation for the help that you have given me so far. This information about the dead motherboard will help alot of others who have the same symptoms, and probably save them from frivilously spending anymore money, Im sure. Thanks!
April 21st, 2006 at 5:23 pm
thank you very much for your quick response. it is nice to find someone willing to help out.
April 21st, 2006 at 10:59 pm
Garcete,
I do not want to insult you, but Toshiba Satellite A65 system boards are crappy! Most likely your jack is fine and the fuse is OK but the board is bad itself. We used to repair a lot of them. We got a lot of units back a few months later after we replaced the system board and we had to replace it again! A new, I mean refurbished system board is pretty expensive. If you buy it through a Toshiba repair center, it would cost you over $320-$450 plus labor; the price would be different for some models. I can help you to find the system board part number if you give me the model and part number for your laptop, for example Toshiba Satellite A65-S109 PSA60U-0KM015. You can find it on the bottom. It is possible that you can find a cheap one on ebay. I was able to find a system board for my Toshiba Satellite 1135 for $49.
I think that there is no perfect laptop, they all brake. Some of them work fine forever, some of them just a nightmare. If you plan to buy a new laptop, I would recommend buying an extended warranty. I’ve had a REALLY GOOD EXPERIENCE with my extended warranty. Here are some notebook buying tips .
BTW, you can find a donation button on the sidebar. Donations are always welcome!
April 22nd, 2006 at 2:51 pm
Thank you, thank you, and thank you!
No insult at all ! The laptop isn’t even mine, its my Aunt’s who by the way knows absolutely nothing about computers and bought the first thing the salesman offered her! Personally I only trust Sonys and Dells. My desktop computer is a Micron and I’ve had it for over 6yrs with absolutely no problems at all !!! (but i guess desktops are more reliable).
Anyways, the model is Toshiba Satellite A65-S126 Model# psa60u-02k015 Serial# 84095828q
And I’m going to tell my cousin the bad and good news and see if he’s willing to buy a motherboard.
As for the donation, as soon as I get my tax return, they’ll be a little something for you guys!
Thanks, thanks, thanks!
April 22nd, 2006 at 3:04 pm
Thank you Garcete,
There is only one system board listed for this Toshiba laptop. The part number is V000040730. I just searched for this part number on ebay and found two of them.
Ouch!!! $625 and $835
I can buy a brand new laptop for $800
Make a right decision. Good luck!
April 24th, 2006 at 10:22 am
Hi,
I have a compaq presario 1700 that we have replaed the power jack on 3 time. It has gone out again and I am wondering if there is any way we could just remove the jack and attach the power wires directly to the mb.
Thank you,
April 24th, 2006 at 9:14 pm
Nikki,
I think there is a way to attach the wires directly to the motherboard, but do you really what to do it? The connection through the power jack is much more reliable then just soldered to the motherboard wires. Just be more careful with the jack.
April 25th, 2006 at 3:59 pm
Maybe we (my cousin and I) should just part the computer out ourselves since everything else is okay. We’d probably make enough for a down payment on a new one !!! Which would definitely be a Dell or Sony !
Otherwise, Im gonna keep a look out and hope a cheaper board comes along! Wish me luck !!! And if you come across something, let me know!
April 26th, 2006 at 6:09 am
Garcete,
When you buy a new laptop I would also consider buying an extended laptop warranty.
April 26th, 2006 at 9:15 pm
Within a couple of months after purchasing my Toshiba M35X laptop, it evidenced the DC jack problem. The computer had seen little use, and no abusive loading of the connector. Unfortunately, at the time, I wasn’t aware that the connector was the source of the problem. Only after it finally gave up the “ghost” did I discover the reason… thanks to this very helpful thread.
In the process of repairing the faulty DC connector, I discovered that the center terminal of the DC connector manufactured by SINGATRON ENTERPRISE CO. wasn’t properly soldered to the PC board. The shiny ball of solder visible on the underside of the PC board concealed what ultimately turned out to be a “cold” solder joint from the factory. In fact, the terminal lead on the connector didn’t even appear to be “tinned”.
Based on the experience of others who have resoldered the joint only to have the problem repeat, I decided to replace the jack with an alternate direct replacement design available from an Ebay source, “dcpowerjacks”. This part is also manufactured by SINGATRON ENTERPRISE CO., but it doesn’t have a round wire-like rear terminal. It has an entirely different construction with a stamped rear terminal… which in my opinion is more suitable to a reliable solder joint. Of course, only time will tell whether I am correct!
April 27th, 2006 at 4:20 pm
I have a Toshiba A75-s226 that needs a DC power jack replaced, I have studied the how to dissmantle pictures and am quite confident I can perform those steps with no problem. My question is when I put my laptop back together will it work as usuall,lose some type of files or all of them, will I have to use the recovery disc? How hard is it to get the A75 working properly?
I have this machine so scaled back,with many services dissabled I don’t know if I could remeber what all to do if I have to start all over?? Thanks
April 27th, 2006 at 9:14 pm
Crestin,
Replacing the power jack on the system board will not affect your data on the hard drive. You will not have to use the recovery disk and the laptop should start as usual.
April 28th, 2006 at 6:45 am
Thanks for all your help and great web site!!
April 30th, 2006 at 2:57 pm
Hi, The dc jack on my toshiba a70, is a dud
i opened it up and soldered all the connections, and i think it may have been better, but now it is even worse than before. i am going to replace the connector. Can i use a universal dc jack from radioshack etc ?
cheers
lachlan
April 30th, 2006 at 4:44 pm
I am not sure if Radioshack sells laptop power jacks. You can find a cheap one on ebay.
May 2nd, 2006 at 12:05 am
[…] Toshiba Satellite M35X and Satellite A75 power jack and battery charge problem. […]
May 9th, 2006 at 1:04 pm
I seem to be having the same DC jack problem.
However, I installed a fully charged battery from someone else’s latop (same model but with no issues) and the laptop still does not power up.
Does this indicate that i might have another problem with the laptop?
Does this DC problem affect battery usage apart from charging the battery?
Any advice would be great
Thanks!
May 9th, 2006 at 10:45 pm
Jeff,
I believe if the DC jack on the system board is damaged, the laptop still will run of the battery. You might have another problem. Does your laptop shows any activity at all? What about LED lights?
May 10th, 2006 at 9:27 am
cj2600, thanks for the reply!
At one point there was some activity. The fan and harddrive sounded like they powered up then everything would just shut off shortly afterwards.
I left it for awhile as i had other priorities that needed to be taken care of.
Now, nothing. Not even any lit LEDs.
After reading this article i was hoping that i had a poorly connected jack and the battery had discharged while the laptop was not in use. But after testing someone else’s charged battery to only produce the same outcome, i wasn’t sure whether a faulty jack would also cause a battery-run laptop to also malfunction.
Since it looks like my case is probably not related to a poor DC jack connection, i’ll be taking the laptop to a technician to be diagnosed and hopefully repaired.
Thanks
May 13th, 2006 at 8:01 pm
I purchased a M35x s149 laptop a year and two months ago, (meaning.. its two months OUT of warranty). The other day my laptop decided to turn restart all by itself. Since then when I try to turn it back on after I have it off, it freezes up. The LED lights come on and the lights around the power key, the fan turns on, but the harddrive doesn’t. The computer will sit there for like five minutes or more and eventually turn on by itself.
I took it to a computer repair place and the guy said there is a short in my motherboard. He is waiting to get prices from Toshiba on the cost of the board. Because I paid only paid $800 I’m debating on just purchasing another laptop instead of putting nearly half or what i bought it for or more, into repairing it!!
Anyone have any idea how much it would run me to get the motherboard replaced on this laptop? Is it even worth it? I’ve heard so many complaints about Toshiba, I’m not sure I want to deal with them anymore! Otherwise it appears to be running fine. Once the computer is on, it stays on… I just have to keep it running 24/7!
May 15th, 2006 at 11:02 am
Jenni, Sorry to hear about your problem. I just repaired a Toshiba M35X laptop for one of my teachers and he found a motherboard online for $475.00 or $395.00 if he trades in the old motherboard. I cannot find him right now but I installed it 2.5 weeks ago and now there are new problems.
I would not recommed putting in a new motherboard. Go with a different manufactuer. You can email me above and I will have the website info for you. Those prices were estimates because I spoke with them, I just cannot find the information now.
May 15th, 2006 at 10:00 pm
Carlos– I did just thought. I purchased an HP laptop–with the extended warranty. I am hoping I have better luck with HP than I had with Toshiba.
Thank you for replying!
Do you know if I can sell this laptop for parts? Is it even worth anything? Or does anyone know?
May 21st, 2006 at 4:11 pm
I am finding these two problems with my A75-S211 (overheating + DC power jack) quite disappointing. This is my third Toshiba, and I have had more problems with this one machine than I had with either of my others.
Frankly, if it wasn’t for the fact that I want to burn CDs and upload my pictures, I would still be using my 2515CDS . . .
Does anybody have an idea how much having a ASP fix these two problems might cost?
May 21st, 2006 at 11:43 pm
Kaysee,
Both problems could be fixed at the same time. To replace the power jack you have to remove the system board. When the system board is removed it takes only 5 minutes to clean the heatsink. If you take it for repair to a Toshiba ASP most likely they will offer to you replace the system board. So, you will have to pay for the system board exchange approximately $300-$400 plus labor. So the repair might cost your somewhere around $400-$550.
You can try to find a local computer repair shop and ask them to resolder or replace the power jack. It would be much cheaper. You can also search for this kind of repair service on the Internet. I think you can get it fixed for about $120-$150.
May 24th, 2006 at 5:10 pm
Hey Jenny, to all those that have a similar problem as in post 91, my Toshiba M35X-S149 laptop also had steady green lights and would not turn on right away. The short is caused by a loose DC Jack on the motherboard. I say do not have it replaced, but rather resolder or replace the DC Jack on the motherboard. My battery was charging and the computer would turn on fine, the fan would kick in but the harddrive refused to start. I thought it was a loose connection somewhere but resoldering the DC Jack did the trick. I hope this helps.
May 26th, 2006 at 2:03 pm
I am having the same problem with my Toshiba. Toshiba is not helping me at all The computer is not holding the charge, it was working if i remove the battery and use the ac adapter
May 26th, 2006 at 3:43 pm
JENNI
I WAS ON THE PHONE WITH TOSHIBA FOR HOURS. JUST SO YOU KNOW THERE IS A RECALL ON YOUR COMPUTER . YOU HAVE TO BRING IT TO AN AUTHORIZED DEALER . EVEN IF OUT OF WARRANTY IT IS STILL COVERED. THE RECALL IS FOR “SYSTEM LOCK OFF AND SPONTANIOUSLY REBOOTING ITSELF. ALSO FYI I READ THAT THERE IS A CLASS ACTION SUIT FOR THIS MODEL. IM LOOKING INTO IT HOPE THIS WAS HELPFUL
May 27th, 2006 at 9:52 pm
[…] I would like to share with others a tip for repairing their Toshiba A75 laptop for the DC Jack and battery charge problem. […]
May 29th, 2006 at 5:47 pm
I brought my laptop to get checked out and it did not fall under the recall about the spontaneous shut downs. That has something to do with an eletric shock in the speaker, or around the speaker, and is definately not what my laptop was doing.
I did end up purchasing a new laptop and the old one is now a paper weight. Toshiba is definately losing out on customers, and very rapidly for their poor customer service and lack of reliablity in their laptops. I don’t see the point in putting money into a faulty, out of warranty piece of junk! HA!
I have been searching for class action law suits for this laptop and have not found any! I would surely join, and I know others who would, too. If anyone has any information about this please post it on here! I’d be interested in the info!
May 29th, 2006 at 7:35 pm
repaired dc connection problem for my niece. Now after re assembly i am getting post error one long three short beeps. Is there a particular side you have to install memory if you only have one stick or do i have a video problem. Screen is black and no boot up. thanks in advance.
May 30th, 2006 at 11:15 pm
Douglas,
Most of the time people cannot boot laptop after reassembly because something is not seated or connected properly. Check if the CPU is seated properly, check if flat cables are connected properly. The laptop should boot with memory stick installed in any slot. Are you sure that the power jack was the only problem in the laptop?
May 30th, 2006 at 11:21 pm
Jenni,
Check it out.
http://www.lorisklar.com/toshad.htm
http://www.classcounsel.com/news/toshiba.html
June 7th, 2006 at 10:11 pm
Hi, and thank you for all your great help. I have the m35x-s149 model. The first problem was the common power/battery charge problem. I followed one of the guides and it turned out wonderful. But now my current problem is that my screen randomly goes black. Pitch black. All my 3 lights are on, I hear my hard drive booting up, and fan spinning. Most of the times it stays black when I turn on the laptop. Other times the bios, xp, etc. loads up fine, and then it goes black. The rest of the time I make it all the way through the log in and see my actual desktop, then it goes black. I’ve noticed that when the screen goes black, i’m no longer able to open my DVD drive, but yet the 3 lights are on. Do you have any suggestions what I should do? My laptop is no longer under warranty, and I’m really on a tight budget. Any tips/help would be much appreciated.
June 7th, 2006 at 11:25 pm
Peter,
I would check all connections first. It is possible that an improperly seated cable or a loose connection creates the problem. Check if all cables are seated properly, check the video cable connector.
June 8th, 2006 at 12:05 am
Okay. I checked all cables and they seem to be placed correctly. I think it’s something else rather then the display. When I got into windows, I played a movie to check if I could hear it when the screen turned black. It seems like the system is shutting off or something, but the LED lights are still on and everything. The screen/system shutoff occurs when I move my laptop around. What do you suggest I do? Everything is correctly placed and tight. Thank you.
June 8th, 2006 at 12:12 am
Okay, scratch my ‘problem occurs when I move the laptop around’. I took the laptop apart, and put everything back in place following the guide. It took me a few tries because the screen/system kept dying , but I logged into windows and left it there. It stayed for about 2 minutes, then the screen went black again.
June 9th, 2006 at 10:51 pm
Peter,
I’m not sure what is going on. You can try one more thing. Remove the system board and try to boot the system outside the laptop case. That’s what I do when I have an unknown problem. I assemble the system on my bench: system board, CPU, cooling module and memory. Then connect the power button board and an external monitor. Boot the system and see if you still having the same problem. I do not have an answer what is wrong with your laptop. I’m not sure if I can help you without looking at the laptop.
June 12th, 2006 at 6:52 am
cj2600, Peter:
I’m in the same exact boat as Peter … I followed the directions posted here and have the same results.
cj2600 your idea about trying while disassembled is a good one because I seem to get better results that way. What I mean is that the laptop boots up good and I can login. However, after a couple of minutes the screen fades to black … It doesn’t appear to shut off it just fades out. The weird part is that I don’t get anything once I assemble the laptop … I press the power button and the blue light and fan comes on and after about 5 - 10 seconds the fan cuts off and nothing appears on the screen. The blue light stays on, but if i move the laptop the blue light goes off.
I tried attaching the assembled laptop to an external monitor and I still get the same results … My next solution is to just replace the DC-IN jack, however I don’t see how that will help anything now because it appears to be working fine because the battery is charging.
June 12th, 2006 at 10:13 pm
[…] am having a problem with my Toshiba M35x-s329 video and the DC plug I am having a problem with my Toshiba M35x-s329 video and the DC plug issue you discuss on here. My screen recently went blank during a shutdown without apparent cause.Here are all the things I have done to try to remedy this problem: 1) After reading about the loose DC plug issues on here. I decided to buy a NEW system board. The new board has a better DC connector - so obviously the manufacturer has addressed this issue. I was going to build a second laptop from the parts. […]
June 17th, 2006 at 8:12 am
Hi, I have similar problem to Peter’s (with the same model), namely, I first had the problem with power supply when my laptop was 6 month old. The battery would not charge, and if you wiggle the plug in the socket then it would, so I had to prop it up. Then they replaced the motherboard under warranty and the upper cover which was manufacturer’s recall. Yesterday here’s what happened: I turned it on and the fan went on and the blue light, but… the screen is dark and the hard drive makes no sound whatsoever, which is unusual. Usually you can hear it turning as windows load. My CD-ROM does not open either unless I poke with a pencil into the small hole, that is provided specifically for this purpose to open it if it can’t be opened normally. My laptop is out of warranty now and the repair shop said it’s going to cost 300-400$ to replace the MB, but I think it may crash again soon. Does anyone know if there were any recalls on this model because of this problem?
Thank you
June 21st, 2006 at 4:55 am
Hi Polina just yesterday i turned my computer on and the same thing that your computer is going through mine is going through too. Do you have a m35x-s109 model? Did you put into hibernation mode the last time you used your laptop? As of right now im still investigating but i have three possible solutions one is the cmos, the other is the dc jack ,and the last is the motherboard. I hope that the last isnt the problem because i dont have $400 for a motherboard
June 22nd, 2006 at 10:07 pm
Hi,
Now I have disassembled my A75 laptop. And i think that the power jack is indeed cracked. So I am gonna get a new jack. but can u provide the instructions (plus pictures would be great) on how to take the old jack out and put the new one in??? Thanks a lot.
June 23rd, 2006 at 10:08 pm
Mine’s doing this, too … but it’s an Acer Travelmate 2700. Apparently this is a very common problem in my model, which sucks a great deal. I get random shut-downs, and what’s even weirder is sometimes when i’m using it, if the AC plug comes unattached for whatever reason, it switches to battery, like normal. When I re-plugin the adapter, it stays on battery without switching back, until I shut down the laptop. The moment it shuts down, the AC adapter starts charging the battery again. Bloody frustrating!
June 27th, 2006 at 1:14 pm
I believe I’m having the power jack issue with my Toshiba Satellite A35-S159. Does anyone have a link to the Maintenance Manual for this laptop. I haven’t been able to find any links on how to break this one down completely. I figured out how to break it down part of the way. I was able to remove the battery, the DVD player, and the hard drive. I also removed all screws on the bottom of the laptop, the two P8 screws on the rear near the hinges, the two screws underneath the DVD player, and the two screws underneath the battery. Do I need to remove the screen and unconnect that as well? If so, anyone have any instructions to get to the power jack. I’m sure it’s busted as wiggling causes the power light to go in and out. I’m also having problems charging. I bought a new battery to rule that out, but I’m still having the same charging problems.
Thanks
June 28th, 2006 at 11:27 am
Paul,
I haven’t created a complete disassembly guide for this model yet, but I think you can handle it yourself. You’re almost there.
Now you have to do next:
- remove the keyboard securing strip (take a look at other guides)
- remove 2 keyboard screws, lift up the keyboard and disconnect from the system board
- disconnect the video cable, pull the wireless antenna cables
- remove covers from both hinges and remove screws from the hinges
- remove the display assembly
- now you have to remove the top cover assembly. Remove 4 screws located on the metal plate and 1 screw that was hidden by the display assembly (you’ll see what I’m talking about)
- disconnect all cables
- remove the top cover
Now you have an access to the motherboard and you have to remove it in order to fix the jack. It should be straight forward. Read through other disassembly guide to get an idea. The power jack is a part of the system board, so you’ll have to find a new one and re-solder it.
June 28th, 2006 at 8:16 pm
Hi cj2600,
But how do u re-solder the jack though? I have a satellite A75 and the power jack is having problem. i can of course buy a new jack from ebay, but i just dont know how to do it…
Thanks.
June 29th, 2006 at 2:05 pm
Kiet,
If you don’t know how to solder, then I wouldn’t recommend doing it yourself. I can damage the system board and it would cost a lot of money to replace it. Take it to a repair shop.
June 30th, 2006 at 11:41 am
Hey everybody,
Here is an update to my comment # 111
I took my laptop to an authorized repair shop and they replace the mother board under “warranty extension”. Please note that I DO NOT have extended wa