Today I received an email from Tony Sakariya who was experiencing a problem with the power jack on his Toshiba Satellite A75 laptop. He’s been able to fix the problem by relocating the power jack outside the laptop case away from the system board.

 

I would like to share with others a tip for repairing their Toshiba A75 laptop for the DC Jack and battery charge problem.

I have a Toshiba A75-S209 for a year now. After the first 3 months it developed the exact same problem. Battery would not charge and I had to twist and turn the power jack to make the connection. Since it was in warranty, I returned it and they repaired and sent it back to me. The problem recurred again after about 4 months and I sent it again and they repaired it and worked fine for 5 more months and it failed. This is a design flaw with Toshiba. Now that I am out of warranty, I decided to repair it myself.

Now here is what I want to share with others. Resoldering the power jack with a new one does solve the problem for a while but it will reoccur. Hence I decided to bring out a wire with the Jack outside. Of course it looks dirty but it is a permanent solution. I am attaching the photo of the repair I did. I got the DC jack from ebay and insulated it with a electrical insulation tape. Now it is working fine, I do the connection and disconnection on the dangling power jack outside the laptop and hence no chance of breaking the soldering outside.

Laptop failed power jack fix

• Coil the pair of wire one round through the ventilation grill before taking it out as shown in the picture above. This is to prevent any external shock or force being directly transmitted to the soldering joints.
• Now we need to connect a new DC Jack to other end of the wire. I purchased the new DC jack from  eBay for $6. Shown in the picture above the white wire is the positive terminal (+) and hence must connect to the inner ring of the DC Jack. Similarly the blue wire being the negative terminal (-) should connect to the outer ring of the DC jack. Refer the picture below on how the wires are soldered to the DC Jack. Be careful not to short the leads as they are very close.

Power Plug Fix

• Now neatly wind a round of insulation tape over the wire and especially on the exposed DC Jack exterior. This will prevent any short-circuit and also give a better appearance.

New Power Jack Assembled

Valued Comments.

Submitted by Binney:

The workaround relocates the jack externally. When I did this, a short occurred between the metal casing on the top cover (the one removed with the guitar pick). This happens if the solder repair is too tall. I covered my repair with electrical insulation tape and that fixed the problem. It took me quite some time to figure out where the short was and would like to save others the headache.

 

Comments #282, 286 submitted by Jake and John:

Size N: DC Power Jack #274-1576 from Radioshack works perfect and looks great. Costs $2.99, easier to solder, snugger fit, 5.5mm O.D. x 2.5mm I.D.

Here are some pictures of the end result of the repair with
the Radio Shack type jack. I added one of those quick release
key holder that I had lying around as a retention holder.

Here is what it looks like unplugged: Power tip unplugged.

Here is what it looks like with the adapter plugged in and
the key holder reattached: Power tip plugged.

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412 Comments

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  1. 132
    Tony Says:

    Hello Gary, This really sounds like a heating problem. You may want to try the following. Make sure the heat sinks are all seated proprly and fans are working fine too. You may hold a thread from a fabric to see if the fans are really sucking in air from under and blowing it out through the rear. Also you may want to see if the soldering you did on the area of broken jack is strong. It could be that when the Laptop is powered by the adaptor the soldering points are getting warm (normal) and in the process there is some loose contact developing as the solder becomes soft when it becomes quite hot. All my guesses, Just wanted to give you some ideas. Good Luck !!!

  2. 131
    Gary C Says:

    Tony:

    Thanks for response. It will start to start up without battery in BUT then
    conks out at some point.

    Seems the AC works for a while, then conks in computer despite still getting
    juice. Unplug and wait and plug in again and works for a little while and
    then dies. Might even go back on for a while. Building up some
    heat/capacitance??? somewhere and then circuit breaks inside somewhere ????

    Fan seems to be working but don’t get much chance to get to hear it.

    With battery in, not consistently charging despite amber light. That was
    true before opening up and is still true. Totally different problem
    unrelated to jack?? It will run off battery without conking out.

    Ready to open up for third time. I do have a couple of screws extra from
    putting back together that I missed reinstalling somewhere. Would that
    matter?

    Thanks,

    Gary Champlin

  3. 130
    Tony Says:

    Hello Carson and Kin, Looks like you both have the same problem. When you say that the screen is blank, does it mean that evn the backlight is not present? To see if backlight it present, just tun on your laptop in a darm room and see if it shows some light. If not then the most likely proble is loose connection. Just make sure that the connector is tight. You may want to unplug the connector and verify if any pins are bent and that the connectors are going in the right way. Good Luck !

  4. 129
    Tony Says:

    Hello Gary, Here are few things you can try. Rmove the battery and switch on the Laptop powered by the adaptor. See if it boot fine. If it doesn’t boot, then you have a problem with the connection. If it boots fine, then install the battery and then boot thr system, check the battery charginf status from the Windows battery status, it should indicate as charging. If it is shown as charging then shutdown your latop and leave it overnight for the battery to charge fully. Try these and see. Good Luck.

  5. 128
    James C Lee Says:

    I have the same problem as 133. All Toshiba Laptop seems have this similar problem…from PII models. I will try another time…by removing the old jack.

  6. 127
    Gary C Says:

    Followed instructions for attaching wires and external connector except did not remove old jack. I’ve got power to/from wires outside. New problem. Lights go out after about 10 minutes and battery not charging despite amber light. Short somewhere? On meter I am reading 19.28 volts even after lights go out.

  7. 126
    Kim Says:

    I am having the same problem as the person below me. I took apart and cleaned and when I put it back together – the screen stays blank although I know it is plugged in – and it doesn’t make the sounds that it normaly makes when windows starts up- please help!

  8. 125
    Carson Haycock Says:

    I took my A75 S226 apart (this is the second time) – and this time when i put it back together – the monitor appers not to turn on and stays black, however, when I turn it off – the screen flashes blue for a second before my computer shuts down. This makes me think that the screen is hooked up (i made sure all screen parts were connected) – but that for whatever reason my computer is not booting up.

    I had some weird beeps one time- the second time my disc drive started up – the third time it made a few weird noises and then just stopped with the booting up sounds and just sits there. Someone please help!

  9. 124
    LB Says:

    Did the workaround you described and now the laptop works great! Thanks!

  10. 123
    William Patterson Says:

    I like the idea of running the wires outside the case and using a pigtail to the connector. I would suggest using some shrink wrap tubing around the wires so it will look professional and also give it some strength. you can even use shrink wrap around the dc connector. I think this is the only fix that will last. I could send our unit to toshiba but that took a month last time and it will not fix the problem. What they should have done is mount the connector in the backside of the case and then connected it to the MB with some short wires…flex wires. This would be the way to go.
    Great site and tips

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