Today I received an email from Tony Sakariya who was experiencing a problem with the power jack on his Toshiba Satellite A75 laptop. He’s been able to fix the problem by relocating the power jack outside the laptop case away from the system board.

 

I would like to share with others a tip for repairing their Toshiba A75 laptop for the DC Jack and battery charge problem.

I have a Toshiba A75-S209 for a year now. After the first 3 months it developed the exact same problem. Battery would not charge and I had to twist and turn the power jack to make the connection. Since it was in warranty, I returned it and they repaired and sent it back to me. The problem recurred again after about 4 months and I sent it again and they repaired it and worked fine for 5 more months and it failed. This is a design flaw with Toshiba. Now that I am out of warranty, I decided to repair it myself.

Now here is what I want to share with others. Resoldering the power jack with a new one does solve the problem for a while but it will reoccur. Hence I decided to bring out a wire with the Jack outside. Of course it looks dirty but it is a permanent solution. I am attaching the photo of the repair I did. I got the DC jack from ebay and insulated it with a electrical insulation tape. Now it is working fine, I do the connection and disconnection on the dangling power jack outside the laptop and hence no chance of breaking the soldering outside.

Laptop failed power jack fix

• Coil the pair of wire one round through the ventilation grill before taking it out as shown in the picture above. This is to prevent any external shock or force being directly transmitted to the soldering joints.
• Now we need to connect a new DC Jack to other end of the wire. I purchased the new DC jack from  eBay for $6. Shown in the picture above the white wire is the positive terminal (+) and hence must connect to the inner ring of the DC Jack. Similarly the blue wire being the negative terminal (-) should connect to the outer ring of the DC jack. Refer the picture below on how the wires are soldered to the DC Jack. Be careful not to short the leads as they are very close.

Power Plug Fix

• Now neatly wind a round of insulation tape over the wire and especially on the exposed DC Jack exterior. This will prevent any short-circuit and also give a better appearance.

New Power Jack Assembled

Valued Comments.

Submitted by Binney:

The workaround relocates the jack externally. When I did this, a short occurred between the metal casing on the top cover (the one removed with the guitar pick). This happens if the solder repair is too tall. I covered my repair with electrical insulation tape and that fixed the problem. It took me quite some time to figure out where the short was and would like to save others the headache.

 

Comments #282, 286 submitted by Jake and John:

Size N: DC Power Jack #274-1576 from Radioshack works perfect and looks great. Costs $2.99, easier to solder, snugger fit, 5.5mm O.D. x 2.5mm I.D.

Here are some pictures of the end result of the repair with
the Radio Shack type jack. I added one of those quick release
key holder that I had lying around as a retention holder.

Here is what it looks like unplugged: Power tip unplugged.

Here is what it looks like with the adapter plugged in and
the key holder reattached: Power tip plugged.

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412 Comments

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  1. 292
    Michael Says:

    My laptop is A70 type and now that I’ve removed the jack to install the wiring for the work around, the + and – positions on the mother board are shorted when tested with a meter. Any suggestions for this problem.

    Mike

  2. 291
    Robert Says:

    Will this work on a Toshiba satellite A30? My jack is not loose but the pin inside the jack broke off inside the Power adapter. So I need to replace the jack regardless. I was thinking if silver soldering the adapter to the jack. Will this work?

  3. 290
    Maged Says:

    HI, I tried to solder the ac Adapter to me a75 toshiba and once i turned the power on, I saw smoke coming out. I saw pd1.. which is next to the DC Jack cracked. could someone help me with this part.. where can I buy one.. or do I have to buya whole mother board… what size and where I can buy it…

  4. 289
    Christopher Says:

    I have really enjoyed the information I have got from your web page and this is why I am sending you this message I have been searching for days trying to find information or pictures on how to find short circuits that causes laptops to show no power at all even when the power jack is well secure is there a method to find out which circuit has grown bad. It will be deeply appreciated if anyone have the answer for me thank you very much

  5. 288
    cj2600 Says:

    pete,

    Do the A45-S121 models have this problem too ?. Mine has a 4 pin square ( traezoid) molded plug

    Not really. In a Satellite A45 laptop the power jack is not soldered on the motherboard, it’s connected to the motherboard via cables.
    If your laptop looses power when you wiggle the power plug inside the jack, check the power cord on your AC adapter. It’s possible it has a broken cable inside and there is nothing wrong with the jack. Test the power adapter with a voltmeter.

  6. 287
    pete Says:

    Do the A45-S121 models have this problem too ?. Mine has a 4 pin square ( traezoid) molded plug . – Thanks

  7. 286
    Oliver Says:

    correction:..
    I meant to say between the 16 and 18gauge wire. The 16gauge wire is my preferred choice as its 1.2mm core diameter is sufficient to carry the 6.3Amps current rating of the power pack with some room to spare.

    By the way has anyone ever spliced the dc portion cable of a disused power pack of this model of laptop. I’m just curious to k now what gauge of cable is carrying the dc current.

  8. 285
    Oliver Says:

    Thanks everyone, I finally got this system to work following the advice i received on here. I even did the soldering myself. A Toshiba service center had asked for $600 to replace the motherboard.

    And thanks Jimbo(Post 293) I experienced the same problem with the 24gauge wire. That gauge of wire is not even sufficient to carry the current rating of the laptop power pack and when u remember that resistance increases with length for a dc cable coupled with heat also then you will be having too much resistance in that small gauge of wire.

    The main problem with the original power jack is that the connectors especially the +ve terminal doesn’t run through to the base of the motherboard so it doesn’t get firmly anchored. I also noticed that it heats up sufficiently. So the heat from the cooling fans may not be the only reason why the solder comes off. Anyway to successfully get this stuff working:-

    1) …Use wires that can support at least 8amps of currently, I’d suggest about 16 – 18 gauge. or any wire that is at least 1.5 – 2 mm in diameter (core and not insulation). p/s convert to inches yourself:)

    2)…Be careful not to connect the wires the wrong way especially when you want to solder the wire to the jack. If you do and you plug the adapter to the jack, you will end up shorting the fuse on the bottom surface of the mother board, a white chip fuse, I think its rated at 12 Amps (Sat -A75 model) This fuse is what actually makes it difficult to re-solder a loose jack or a new jack as it often has to be removed first on the A75 model that i have, but this work around method doesn’t bother with that.

    3)….Use that black insulation tape or what ever type u have to insulate the top body shell from the solder point especially if its high..mostly unavoidable as you have to place a wire on the surface. U can insulate by taping the work area directly, or you c an put the tape on the part of the body shell that is directly above the solder point. Or u can just do both.

    4)…You don’t really have to pass the wire through the vent, you can still pass it through the former jack hole but be sure to knot it on the inside to u can’t accidentally pull the soldered joint off. I thought about this because of the heat coming out of the vent and especially if smaller gauge wire was being used.

    4)…Remember, this A75-S209 and the rest of the series, run very hot, very very very hot, so do not place it on your bed excepting u put it on some kind of solid flat surface. Else it will over heat.

    Well I can eventually send pics if needed, and thanks again everyone.

  9. 284
    cj2600 Says:

    deeps,
    If you replaced battery and AC adapter but it didn’t help them most likely your problem is related to the power jack.

  10. 283
    deeps Says:

    I am having a problem with toshiba a75.when i connected to power the light is flickering.i tried to replace with ac adapter & battery .still i am getting the same problem.is it sure the problem is with dc jack.

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