Today I received an email from Tony Sakariya (tsakariyaATyahooDOTcom) who was experiencing a problem with the power jack on his Toshiba Satellite A75 laptop. He’s been able to fix the problem by relocating the power jack outside the laptop case away from the system board.
I would like to share with others a tip for repairing their Toshiba A75 laptop for the DC Jack and battery charge problem.
I have a Toshiba A75-S209 for a year now. After the first 3 months it developed the exact same problem. Battery would not charge and I had to twist and turn the power jack to make the connection. Since it was in warranty, I returned it and they repaired and sent it back to me. The problem recurred again after about 4 months and I sent it again and they repaired it and worked fine for 5 more months and it failed. This is a design flaw with Toshiba. Now that I am out of warranty, I decided to repair it myself. Your guide for dismantling A75 was awesome. Thanks for the info. Now here is what I want to share with others. Resoldering the power jack with a new one does solve the problem for a while but it will reoccur. Hence I decided to bring out a wire with the Jack outside. Of course it looks dirty but it is a permanent solution. I am attaching the photo of the repair I did. I got the DC jack from ebay and insulated it with a electrical insulation tape. Now it is working fine, I do the connection and disconnection on the dangling power jack outside the laptop and hence no chance of breaking the soldering outside.
• Coil the pair of wire one round through the ventilation grill before taking it out as shown in the picture above. This is to prevent any external shock or force being directly transmitted to the soldering joints.
• Now we need to connect a new DC Jack to other end of the wire. I purchased the new DC jack from here for a price of $6. Shown in the picture above the white wire is the positive terminal (+) and hence must connect to the inner ring of the DC Jack. Similarly the blue wire being the negative terminal (-) should connect to the outer ring of the DC jack. Refer the picture below on how the wires are soldered to the DC Jack. Be careful not to short the leads as they are very close.
• Now neatly wind a round of insulation tape over the wire and especially on the exposed DC Jack exterior. This will prevent any short-circuit and also give a better appearance.
Toshiba Satellite A70/A75. Disassembly guide with pictures.
Valued Comments.
Submitted by Binney:
The workaround relocates the jack externally. When I did this, a short occurred between the metal casing on the top cover (the one removed with the guitar pick). This happens if the solder repair is too tall. I covered my repair with electrical insulation tape and that fixed the problem. It took me quite some time to figure out where the short was and would like to save others the headache.
Comments #282, 286 submitted by Jake and John:
Size N: DC Power Jack #274-1576 from Radioshack works perfect and looks great. Costs $2.99, easier to solder, snugger fit, 5.5mm O.D. x 2.5mm I.D.
Here are some pictures of the end result of the repair with
the Radio Shack type jack. I added one of those quick release
key holder that I had lying around as a retention holder.Here is what it looks like unplugged: Power tip unplugged.
Here is what it looks like with the adapter plugged in and
the key holder reattached: Power tip plugged.
If you find this article useful, please consider making a donation to the author. Thank you!
May 18th, 2009 at 11:06 pm
I am trying to fix the dc jack problem on my Toshiba Satellite A75, but I only have took all the screws from the back off. I am following the guide to dismantling A75, but am stuck on taking the wire card and the other silver box above the DVD off. I feel like I am going to break them if I pull to hard or something. Maybe I did not take all the necessary screws off? Can someone show more pics step by step… literally? Thanks!
April 19th, 2009 at 9:55 pm
Thanks for the great idea and link to the dismantling guide. I just finished the mod using 18AWG wire and the radio shack dc power jack routed outside of the case. When I opened everthing up the existing power jack was epoxied on and felt solid but I went ahead with the mod anyway as I had nothing to lose. Now everything works like its supposed to, battery charges, no cutting off….perfect!!!!! Thanks again for the solution.
March 31st, 2009 at 9:42 pm
what gauge wire and type did you use?
March 24th, 2009 at 8:58 am
I noticed that people suggested larger wire than what I used (22 AWG Type 1A wire). So far my laptop is working and charges fine. Should I replace the wire? If it is working could it fail/ short later. I found out that the 22 AWG wire is rated for 4amps. A lot of the charts are based on longer lengths of wire when tested. My wires ar less than two inches, will this work? Please help. Thanks.
March 23rd, 2009 at 2:15 pm
This site is great. I was able to correct this problem for my son’s computer and he has been using the computer for a full year now with no problems.
March 22nd, 2009 at 5:56 pm
I forgot to add that I used a piece of poster board and each time I removed something I drew a box around it and labeled it. Also each time there was a series of screws to remove I drew a picture of the case and where the screws were. As I removed them I stood them up on their head in the place that they belonged. When I put everything back together it made it very easy. Some of the screws are different lengths so this way makes it easy to remember were they go.
I read a lot on here where people had extra screws when done. I can honestly say that I have no extra screws.
March 22nd, 2009 at 5:33 pm
I wanted to express my thanks for the information compiled here. I have just completed fixing my laptop this weekend. I was able to use the instructions for disassembling the A75, and they helped greatly.
A few things worth mentioning… I went with the type N panel jack and noticed that the mother board ends up hitting the jack. Two things can help it clear, one is to put the locking washer on the outside of the laptop and two trim the circuit board. You have to cut a tiny bit off right at the jack about an 1/8″ including the blade width. Also the panel jack requires a 7/16″ drill bit. I used 22 AWG Type 1A wire, it is working so far.
Thanks again for the info.
March 22nd, 2009 at 6:16 am
Hey I went to ebay and paid Kitten computers to replcd my dc jack.. They did an excellant job cost me about $70. I had to mail it to them they mail it back. Very profesional job. Work awesome they did all the work for me. Dave
March 21st, 2009 at 9:30 am
I performed the dc jack fix and it charges only when powered off.I tried a wire from the bottom of the board to the top on the + end and one on the – end and nothing i tried both 16 and 12 gauge wire with same result.My a75 powers up with no batt in but dies before login, with batt in it powers up but immediately switches over to batt power i am completely fed up with my lappy someone please help.
March 19th, 2009 at 11:29 am
So I have attempted this work around. I purchased a new power jack, soldered the wires to the correct spots on the motherboard and power jack, plug it in and nothing happens. I tried resoldering everything again, tried using the old and new power jack, and now I noticed that there is a faint clicking sound some where near where the plug is to the battery connection. When everything is put back together it can run from the battery no problem, but when I connect the AC plug the laptop wont detect the power plug whatsoever. I tried reading through some of the old posts and possibly found a fix and that is to flash the computer? Is that right? I am going to try a different size wire tonight, a thinner copper wire, so that I can close the case better. Any help would be greatly appreciated.