Toshiba Satellite model M35X - fixing power connector
Toshiba Satellite M35X model is known for it’s power connector problem. This issue has been covered on this blog a few times before in the following articles.
Toshiba Satellite M35X and Satellite A75 power jack and battery charge problem
Failed power jack workaround (guide for a Satellite A75 notebook similar to Satellite M35X)
Here’s another well written and documented guide submitted by Stephen Macuch. Thank you Stephen for the great pictures and very detailed instructions.
This is a view of the laptop power connector before the repair:

Inside the yellow circle is the main power connection from the connector to the board – note that you can see a dark circle completely around it, indicating that there is no solid metal connection.
Also note that it looks somewhat ‘burnt’ – this is indicative of sparking taking place. This connection carries 3 amps of current. The current then passes through the component labeled PF1 ( literally ‘Power Fuse 1’). It then is supposed to connect to this side of the part circled in red (‘PL1’) – but notice that flexing of the board as the connector was wiggled caused a crack you can see running horizontally under this end of this part.
Same view, after the repair:

The green coating covering the metal leading up to the power connector was scraped off down to the bare copper of the board, in three places – the center pin, circled in yellow here, and the connector pins on both sides (see below). All were resoldered – on the top side of the board first, then touched up on the bottom (which is not where the primary electrical contact is made). The new broader, smoothly-tapered connection will be both physically stronger, and a better electrical connection.
Inside the red circle, you can see this was done for other part (PL1), as well.
Bottom view of connector, before the repair:

Again note that inside the circled areas, you can see dark circles where there should be solid metal, indicating that the original physical connection has been broken, and the parts are only transferring power due to the fact that they are touching . In fact, the only thing even holding the connector to the board is the connection in the bottom middle (between the two lower yellow circles) and it has a crack in it, as well.
Notice, also, the dried flux residue, indicating that this bottom-side soldering was done entirely, or touched up, by hand - and not cleaned afterwards.
The actual metal that conducts the power is actually of the top side of the board, where the connector is mounted, but the fact that the solder that flowed through mounting holes has cracked indicates is was not properly soldered in the first place.
As you can see in the two views below, all solder joints between the connector and the top side copper on the board now look much better. Increasing the size and coverage of the solder joints to the metal sides of the connector will make its mounting to the board physically much stronger as well, and better able to resist any side-to-side or up-and-down forces.


Inside the red circles, you can see that both sides of that part PL1 have been well resoldered.
This bottom view of the board after the repair shows good flow of solder through to the bottom side at the time the joints were resoldered.

Here’s another common problem with this model:
Laptop locks up, freezes up or reboots when you touch the speakers
Entry Filed under: Toshiba Laptop Problems
January 19th, 2008 at 4:32 pm
I have a toshiba satelite pro 4600, The power jack
has to be wiggled to charge the battery and then
I have to unplug the charger to use the laptop
or the screen wont come on. Is this the same power jack problem and do you have instructions
on taking this thing apart? My dad can solder the
bad connections for me. Your help would be apreciated. THANKS
January 19th, 2008 at 12:59 pm
Jon,
When you start a Toshiba Satellite M35X laptop without any memory modules installed you have to get a beep error, something like one short - three long - three long - one short. If you laptop will not beep when both memory modules are removed, most likely there is a problem with the motherboard. Just make sure the laptop volume is turned on, set the volume wheel somewhere in the middle.
January 13th, 2008 at 11:57 pm
cj2600,
Sorry for the late reply. I actually did run the memory tests for a day and a half. No errors occurred.
I am typing on my Toshiba laptop as I speak (once it powers on correctly it will stay on). At first, I was thinking only one side of the motherboard was the problem (as indicated here) But, I would doubt it, since the problem still occurs when running off the battery.
I had actually tried to power it without the memory and hd’s and other components. But still, a lot of times, the fans will power and nothing else. Any other suggestions?
January 12th, 2008 at 12:00 pm
Jon,
It could be memory related problem, maybe the memory module is not making a good contact with the motherboard. Try reconnecting the memory module, try installing it into a different slot on the motherboard, clean memory contacts.
Also, it’s possible the memory is going bad. You can test the memory module with Memtest86+ utility.
Run this test overnight, so it passes a few times. If you’ll get memory errors, move the memory module into the second slot and test again.
If your memory fails test in both slots, most likely you have a bad module and will have to replace it.
If your memory fails test only in one slot, there could be something wrong with the memory slot itself. You’ll have to replace the motherboard or use the laptop only with one memory module installed into the working slot.
I hope this explanation is clear enough.
January 12th, 2008 at 12:39 am
I have the M35X-S161 and I resoldered the power jack. Thank god that it worked.
But, I ran into another problem. My laptop can charge and sometimes will boot correctly. But often, the laptop fans will receive power, but nothing else receives power (no LCD, can’t open DVD drive, wireless led not on).
It doesn’t seem to attempt to perform POST. Please drop me an email and I can keep you updated on if it’s fixed (so you or I can post the solution)
January 7th, 2008 at 11:52 am
Anyone know what is the part PL1circle in RED on above image. The PL1 part on my board is burned the end close to DC jack.
January 6th, 2008 at 1:00 am
Anyone what is the part PL1circle in RED on above image. The PL1 part on my board is burned the end close to DC jack.
October 5th, 2007 at 11:29 am
hello i am having the exact same problem with a satellite m115 but the part is different when you open it up, it is under warranty but i dont want to send my hard drive away in the mail and potentially lose data…
though the symptoms are exactly the same, since the part is different, is it the same problem? i wonder because if it is the dc jack part, then why wouldnt the computer start if the battery has a charge on it? is it the power is routed via the dc jack and if the part goes bad then the whole unit wont power up? i want to make sure before i go get the part and do the repair, thanks!!
September 12th, 2007 at 9:25 pm
Jeff,
I’m using just regular solder, not sure exactly what type it is.
To make it work properly you have to remove the power jack, then clean contacts on the motherboard and pins on the power jack, apply fresh coat of solder on contact and pins and then solder the jack back in place.
Check out this post. Failed power jack workaround.
And this one too. Satellite M35X extended warranty.
September 12th, 2007 at 4:38 am
PS if it is of any help I have the Toshiba M35X S149