Toshiba Satellite M35X model is known for it’s power connector problem. This issue has been covered on this blog a few times before in the following articles.
Toshiba Satellite M35X and Satellite A75 power jack and battery charge problem
Failed power jack workaround (guide for a Satellite A75 notebook similar to Satellite M35X)
Here’s another well written and documented guide submitted by Stephen Macuch. Thank you Stephen for the great pictures and very detailed instructions.
This is a view of the laptop power connector before the repair:
Inside the yellow circle is the main power connection from the connector to the board – note that you can see a dark circle completely around it, indicating that there is no solid metal connection.
Also note that it looks somewhat ‘burnt’ – this is indicative of sparking taking place. This connection carries 3 amps of current. The current then passes through the component labeled PF1 ( literally ‘Power Fuse 1’). It then is supposed to connect to this side of the part circled in red (‘PL1’) – but notice that flexing of the board as the connector was wiggled caused a crack you can see running horizontally under this end of this part.
Same view, after the repair:
The green coating covering the metal leading up to the power connector was scraped off down to the bare copper of the board, in three places – the center pin, circled in yellow here, and the connector pins on both sides (see below). All were resoldered – on the top side of the board first, then touched up on the bottom (which is not where the primary electrical contact is made). The new broader, smoothly-tapered connection will be both physically stronger, and a better electrical connection.
Inside the red circle, you can see this was done for other part (PL1), as well.
Bottom view of connector, before the repair:
Again note that inside the circled areas, you can see dark circles where there should be solid metal, indicating that the original physical connection has been broken, and the parts are only transferring power due to the fact that they are touching . In fact, the only thing even holding the connector to the board is the connection in the bottom middle (between the two lower yellow circles) and it has a crack in it, as well.
Notice, also, the dried flux residue, indicating that this bottom-side soldering was done entirely, or touched up, by hand – and not cleaned afterwards.
The actual metal that conducts the power is actually of the top side of the board, where the connector is mounted, but the fact that the solder that flowed through mounting holes has cracked indicates is was not properly soldered in the first place.
As you can see in the two views below, all solder joints between the connector and the top side copper on the board now look much better. Increasing the size and coverage of the solder joints to the metal sides of the connector will make its mounting to the board physically much stronger as well, and better able to resist any side-to-side or up-and-down forces.
Inside the red circles, you can see that both sides of that part PL1 have been well resoldered.
This bottom view of the board after the repair shows good flow of solder through to the bottom side at the time the joints were resoldered.
Here’s another common problem with this model:
Laptop locks up, freezes up or reboots when you touch the speakers
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April 11th, 2010 at 1:40 am
i hav one laptop hp dv6.taht screen has brokn.how to replace?replace simple or not.which tools need for this?
March 14th, 2010 at 8:39 am
Can anyone tell me how many of the screws on back of toshiba mx35 have to be taken out to get to the motherboard? I have taken out all the screws on the perimeter (about 10) and the back is still tightly attached. I just do not want to take out any that if not necessary.
February 18th, 2010 at 7:48 am
hi experts,
im from india and i got a toshiba m35x gift from my cousin from USA. ok the problem is the adapter pin is loose i have to keep touching or spin it around to get the power so that the laptop starts. my battery do not charge at all so i thought maybe the problem is with the battery and i ordered for a new one but today after getting the new battery and also a new adapter the new battery did not charge at all. when the laotop is off the orange light of charging indicator does show but it never charged the battery at all amd whem i turm the laptop on the orange light dissapears, and the new adapter is also having same issue its kinda loose kile the old one, i thought after buying a new one the problem may get solved but never did. now the guy from the shop who brought me the new adapter and new battery is saying he have to replace the connector of my m35x and the problem will get solved and battery will charge. do you think i should get him to replace the connector? and one last question by any means is my old battery actually not gone bad but it stopped charging bcoz of the adapter pin issue?
thanks in advanse please someone guide me asap.
February 14th, 2010 at 4:14 pm
yozhic Says:
January 8th, 2010 at 6:31 pm
thank you! I fixed the yellow circle but the problem continued! after seeing your website, I fixed the red circle too and everything is great! God bless you!
Yozhic, bless Danic’s paypal account with a few samolians!
I couldn’t correct this problem with out removeing the power jack entirely. There is not a proper solder to the top of the PC board. After cleaning the board up and providing two connections(top & bottom of the PC board) soldered positively, I inserted a wire to both 19V+ and neg connections and relocated the power plug externally.
It may not look OEM brand new… but it’ll last way longer than those. (the constant plugging/unplugging takes a toll on thr PC board connections)
oh BTW: it cost nothing to fix (if u have the tools)
January 8th, 2010 at 6:31 pm
thank you! I fixed the yellow circle but the problem continued! after seeing your website, I fixed the red circle too and everything is great! God bless you!
June 15th, 2009 at 5:59 pm
Hi
I recently purchased a secondhand Toshiba equium L20-264 that wouldn’t charge the battery, even a new one. The orange charge light would stay constant for about 10 mins then blink non stop when I plug in the ac adaptor. Power meter says unknown remaing 0% charging. After taking the laptop apart I notice that the PF1 component looked damaged, like the description ‘it looks like a droplet’. I came across a forum when someone said that they managed to repair the PF1 (power fuse 1) by resoldering the connection and solved his problems. Another comment was to replace it with some sort of resister to protect power surge. I was wondering if anybody has tried this? and if using a resister, what amperage should it be?
June 3rd, 2009 at 3:42 pm
Well after taking my toshiba to the authorized toshiba warrenty repair people, inacomp on 12mile in southfield michigan and leaving a $45.00 diagnostic fee whether they fix it or not…lol really no kidding. they told me that a new part was $450.00 including labor and that it would be more cost effective to just buy a new computer. Thanks I left the forty-five dollars and ran out of the place, feeling glad that they didn’t robbed me of my wallet and cards too…lol. after looking at this blog and the great photos I decided to tackle the problem myself. now mind you I’ve never opened a laptop before and I’ve never seen a circut board either, but I managed to get the thing apart and open enought to see the circuit board and power connector, and as I was chewing my wrigley sperimnent gum, I decided to slip the doubled over wrapper in between the circuit board and the connector. And to my amazement the power light lit up and so did the charging battery light too. I’m not recommending this as a solution, but it worked for me….thank GOD…I can’t afford another computer or $450.00 for repairs….lol
February 26th, 2009 at 11:03 pm
seanjim78,
Apparently, you didn’t solder it properly the first time. Make sure all contacts on motherboard and jack are clean and coated with fresh solder. Solder it back in.
If you do a good job, the repair should last.
February 25th, 2009 at 11:22 am
back again, my fixed satHELLite, has same problem again dc jack came away from the board thingy, what about wiring outside of laptop. adviseable or no
January 13th, 2009 at 10:56 pm
I got M30X laptop, and there is a problem with power. When I try to turn it on (battery or cable) CPU fan work for 3s, and nothing happen – only power button and leds showsthet laptop is working. When i turn it on pressing the power connector (even without power cord connected) it starts normally… until I relese pushing this connector. It works the same way without battery – only with power cable – when I pulling the plug up.
My friend desoldered and check power connector – it seems to be OK, then solder it wery precisely and still works the same. Do you know what can be wrong with this connection/MB?