Toshiba Satellite M35X model is known for it’s power connector problem. This issue has been covered on this blog a few times before in the following articles.
Toshiba Satellite M35X and Satellite A75 power jack and battery charge problem
Failed power jack workaround (guide for a Satellite A75 notebook similar to Satellite M35X)
Here’s another well written and documented guide submitted by Stephen Macuch. Thank you Stephen for the great pictures and very detailed instructions.
This is a view of the laptop power connector before the repair:

Inside the yellow circle is the main power connection from the connector to the board – note that you can see a dark circle completely around it, indicating that there is no solid metal connection.
Also note that it looks somewhat ‘burnt’ – this is indicative of sparking taking place. This connection carries 3 amps of current. The current then passes through the component labeled PF1 ( literally ‘Power Fuse 1’). It then is supposed to connect to this side of the part circled in red (‘PL1’) – but notice that flexing of the board as the connector was wiggled caused a crack you can see running horizontally under this end of this part.
Same view, after the repair:

The green coating covering the metal leading up to the power connector was scraped off down to the bare copper of the board, in three places – the center pin, circled in yellow here, and the connector pins on both sides (see below). All were resoldered – on the top side of the board first, then touched up on the bottom (which is not where the primary electrical contact is made). The new broader, smoothly-tapered connection will be both physically stronger, and a better electrical connection.
Inside the red circle, you can see this was done for other part (PL1), as well.
Bottom view of connector, before the repair:

Again note that inside the circled areas, you can see dark circles where there should be solid metal, indicating that the original physical connection has been broken, and the parts are only transferring power due to the fact that they are touching . In fact, the only thing even holding the connector to the board is the connection in the bottom middle (between the two lower yellow circles) and it has a crack in it, as well.
Notice, also, the dried flux residue, indicating that this bottom-side soldering was done entirely, or touched up, by hand – and not cleaned afterwards.
The actual metal that conducts the power is actually of the top side of the board, where the connector is mounted, but the fact that the solder that flowed through mounting holes has cracked indicates is was not properly soldered in the first place.
As you can see in the two views below, all solder joints between the connector and the top side copper on the board now look much better. Increasing the size and coverage of the solder joints to the metal sides of the connector will make its mounting to the board physically much stronger as well, and better able to resist any side-to-side or up-and-down forces.


Inside the red circles, you can see that both sides of that part PL1 have been well resoldered.
This bottom view of the board after the repair shows good flow of solder through to the bottom side at the time the joints were resoldered.

Here’s another common problem with this model:
Laptop locks up, freezes up or reboots when you touch the speakers
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November 25th, 2010 at 3:06 pm
Reisha,
First of all, test the AC adapter with a voltmeter. It’s possible your AC adapter is dead and the battery has no charge.
Replacing the adapter might fix the issue.
November 21st, 2010 at 2:49 pm
my laptop has been shut down for a month, i am now trying to turm it on but its not coming on at all, even though when i try turning it on, i only have it a month now, its not even taking charge. lights not coming on, what can i do
October 7th, 2010 at 1:27 pm
Johan,
Are you using original factory adapter or it’s a third party replacement adapter?
What if you remove the battery, plug the AC adapter and try turning it on (with the battery removed)?
October 6th, 2010 at 8:04 am
i have toshiba satellite A205-S7466
my notebook turnd on but no disply if my charger plug. but if my charger unplug, my notebook turnd on and disply normal..
help me please…?
September 27th, 2010 at 3:54 am
Gord,
In a Satellite E100/E105 the power connector is not soldered to the motherboard. It’s attached to a power harness which can be unplugged from the motherboard without desoldering.
Take a look at this guide: http://www.irisvista.com/tech/.....ptop-1.htm
the power connector shown on the step 14.
If you have a problem with the power connector, you simply unplug the damaged jack and replace it with a new one.
September 14th, 2010 at 9:21 am
Just looked at your pics on Toshiba M35X – very helpful, though mine is a Toshiba Satelite E100 with a similar physical power connection problem – would this be the same idea to repair?
Thanks.
June 6th, 2010 at 6:28 am
@Ryan, did you remove the VGA bolts? These two hold the mobo to the bottom bezel, you’ll need pliers for this. I wrote up a repair tutorial for the m35 covering the bad power plug and the Maxim repair. Working now on an upgraded version of the PDF tutorial and will include disasembly instructions also, so you may want to check it out http://imateski.blogspot.com/2.....board.html
April 24th, 2010 at 2:40 pm
riyas,
Take a look at the following guides:
http://www.insidemylaptop.com/?s=dv6000
You’ll get the idea how to replace the LCD screen.
April 24th, 2010 at 2:38 pm
riyas,
In most laptops the graphics card is integrated into the motherboard. If the graphics card fails, the whole motherboard has to be replaced.
What is your model number. In some models the graphics card failure is a known issue. For example, HP Pavilion dv2000/dv6000/dv9000.
April 11th, 2010 at 1:44 am
my laptop turnd on but no disply…i did check ram and hd….i thing it has grapicscard problem….how to fix this problem…pls help me