This guide will explain how to repair a failed or loose DC power jack on a laptop computer yourself. Here’s my previous post related to DC power jack related issues.
Disclaimer: I’ve made these instructions only for people experienced with soldering and repairing computers. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this job, please do not open the laptop or you can permanently damage your computer. Take your laptop to a professional repair shop instead.
Use this repair guide at your own risk. 
First of all, you’ll have to disassemble your laptop and remove the motherboard. Here you’ll find disassembly instructions for some major laptop brands such as IBM, Dell, HP, Compaq, Toshiba. If your laptop is not on the list, you’ll have to figure out yourself how to take it apart.
For this repair you’ll need the following tools.
1. Soldering iron or soldering station. I use Weller WES51 soldering station and for this job I set temperature to about 800-850°F.
2. I use high-tech rosin core silver-bearing solder from Radioshack with diameter 0.022″ ( Catalog #: 64-013 ). I think standard rosin core solder will work just fine.
3. Desoldering pump for removing solder around component leads. I use Edsyn Soldapullt pump, model DS 017.
4. 99% isopropyl alcohol and tooth brash for cleaning the motherboard from flux.
5. A new DC power jack, you can find a cheap one here.
Laptop DC power jack repair guide.
As you see on the following picture, the solder drop on the positive terminal looks different than on other three contacts. That’s where the problem is. The positive pin is not making a good contact with the motherboard and because of that power to the laptop cuts off when I move the power plug inside the power jack.
I’m going to desolder the power jack from the motherboard, clean contacts on both power jack and motherboard and then solder it back in place – this is the proper way fixing the power problem.
Start desoldering process with adding some new fresh solder to all three contacts. This will make old solder more flowable, easier to remove.
While heating one of the contacts, remove the solder from this contact using the desoldering pump. Repeat the same steps with all power jack contacts until you remove as much solder as possible.
Grab the power jack and carefully try removing it from the motherboard. Most likely you will not be able to remove the power jack the first time because there will be some solder bridges left between the contacts and traces on the motherboard. Carefully wiggle the power jack without applying any significant force and at the same time heat up all contacts one by one. This will help you to remove the power jack.
The DC power jack is almost removed from the motherboard.
Be careful. Inside the positive hole there is a copper sleeve witch connects the terminal on one side of the motherboard with the traces on the other side. If you are removing the power jack with force, you can pull the sleeve from the hole. You don’t want to do that.
UPDATE: If you accidentally removed the internal sleeve, check out this post: How to fortify damaged power jack connection.
So, do not apply any force and make sure the solder is melted when you are removing the power jack. I hope you understand what I’m talking about.
After the power jack is removed, clean all oxidized contacts with a knife.
Apply a fresh coat of solder to all contacts on the power jack.
The power jack terminals will look dirty because of melted flux.
You can remove the flux using the tooth brash and alcohol. It’s not necessary but it will make your job looking clean.
Apply a fresh coat of solder to all power jack terminals on both sides of the motherboard.
This side has been coated.
And this side has been coated too.
Now you can install the power jack back on the motherboard. Put something under power jack so there is no gap between the jack and the motherboard. Now you are ready to solder the jack back in place.
Solder all power jack pins.
The job is done and the laptop DC power jack is fixed. B-E-A-utiful!
Now just install the motherboard back into the laptop and you are done.
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March 18th, 2009 at 8:42 am
Aaron,
I think so. I wouldn’t use a solvent.
Is it black epoxy? It’s not very sticky. You can carefully remove that epoxy with a knife or another sharp object. I’ve seen a few motherboards with failed power jack glued to the motherboard with black epoxy.
Remove as much epoxy as you can. After that unsolder the jack. Finally, remove the rest of epoxy and solder a new jack.
George (comment 235),
I think you can do that. There shouldn’t be a problem if you solder it correctly. Make sure the polarity is right.
March 18th, 2009 at 8:35 am
will a solvent that can remove epoxy, damage the motherboard?
March 16th, 2009 at 7:26 pm
Thanks for the feeback and good news. Answering this question.
Can I leave it in place and install the radio shack workaround plug next to it and just run wires to the + & – ??
My question is, does the OEM power jack have to be removed? I have other places I can locate the RadioShack plug but is it OK to run the + & – wires to the motherboard with the jack still in place? Will it cause any problems?
I’d rather not remove it and risk damaging the motherboard. As a note, I’m thinking about removing the S-Video jack that is close to the power jack. I never use it and the hole is the perfect size.
Thoughts specifically anyone on the logic on not removing the OEM jack and just soldering the +&- wires to the motherboard on the opposite side as shown in the workaround?
Thanks for everyone’s help – I’ll let you know how it turns out – just want to be sure that not removing the OEM jack won’t fry something
March 16th, 2009 at 10:40 am
George: I am responding to your question about removing the plug. I had the same issue. My work-around probably is not recommended, but is working. I removed the power jack with a hacksaw. Yea…you read that right. Mine too was epoxied on. I think that was Toshibas way to fix things! I tried to unsolder the plug for 2-3 nights after work with no luck. I did damage the board a bit as I got too deep with the saw, but it did come off. I was able to then solder on an external dc jack as a work-around after the plug was removed and all is well!
March 16th, 2009 at 8:53 am
You could try (I wouldnt recommend it) but first you should see if you have the spare room in your lap top for an additional AC jack next to the original one. And unless youre planning on doing modifications to your housing how are you going to plug the power cord in? Maybe Im misunderstanding something.
March 15th, 2009 at 6:40 pm
have my A-75 completely dissassembled, but the dc power jack seems to be also epoxied to the motherboard and doesn’t feel loose. I’m having all of the same symptoms mentioned here and the motherboard was replaced a couple of years ago under warranty due to the overheating problem.
How do I remove this jack – some of the glue even seems to be partially covering a resistor or two. Can I leave it in place and install the radio shack workaround plug next to it and just run wires to the + & – ??
Thanks for the great site!
March 14th, 2009 at 11:47 am
Well, I had my husband dremmelled the jack apart so that only the soldered pieces were left. We tried (even with a soldering gun) but, can’t get the pieces off. I am sure it is the soldering iron. From the various sites I’ve looked at, 60 – 100 watt irons (100w preferred) will make an easy job of getting the jack off. The trick is hot and quick (to avoid damaging the motherboard). I didn’t want to spend $50+ for an iron and can’t be sure I haven’t damaged the board already. So, don’t throw tomatoes now, I went on Ebay and got myself an used motherboard. Now, I am up and running.
March 11th, 2009 at 6:58 am
Like I said, I used a dremmel and then some fine point clippers to get the Jack off of one board. It still works after the replacement. So, you can do that, Cathy. Good Luck
March 10th, 2009 at 9:47 am
I have a Advent notepad 1315Nordic that does not want to switch on at all at first I thought it was the battery but not then i tried removing the RAM, Hard drive and putting them back but nothing its still not switching on. The other thing is that when I press the the power button the power light goes on, plus the Hard drive light goes on as well.
Please anyone with an Idea of troubleshooting it please help me.
Thx MIKE (NAMIBIA WINDHOEK)
March 10th, 2009 at 3:48 am
Leo, thanks for the info. I actually figured out that I couldn’t take short cuts and removed everything that could be removed. Unfortunately, I can’t get the jack loose. Maybe my soldering iron is not hot enough, I don’t know. I am going to look for some soldering wick and try one more time. I am to the point where I might be hitting Ebay for a motherboard.