This guide will explain how to repair a failed or loose DC power jack on a laptop computer yourself. Here’s my previous post related to DC power jack related issues.
Disclaimer: I’ve made these instructions only for people experienced with soldering and repairing computers. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this job, please do not open the laptop or you can permanently damage your computer. Take your laptop to a professional repair shop instead.
Use this repair guide at your own risk.
First of all, you’ll have to disassemble your laptop and remove the motherboard. Here are service manuals for some known laptop brands. Here are more Toshiba guides. If your laptop is not on the list, you’ll have to figure out yourself how to take it apart.
For this repair you’ll need the following tools.
1. Soldering iron or soldering station. I use Weller WES51 soldering station and for this job I set temperature to about 800-850°F.
2. I use high-tech rosin core silver-bearing solder from Radioshack with diameter 0.022″ ( Catalog #: 64-013 ). I think standard rosin core solder will work just fine.
3. Desoldering pump for removing solder around component leads. I use Edsyn Soldapullt pump, model DS 017.
4. 99% isopropyl alcohol and tooth brush for cleaning the motherboard from flux.
5. A new DC power jack, you can find a cheap one here.
Laptop DC power jack repair guide.
As you see on the following picture, the solder drop on the positive terminal looks different than on other three contacts. That’s where the problem is. The positive pin is not making a good contact with the motherboard and because of that power to the laptop cuts off when I move the power plug inside the power jack.
I’m going to desolder the power jack from the motherboard, clean contacts on both power jack and motherboard and then solder it back in place – this is the proper way fixing the power problem.
Start desoldering process with adding some new fresh solder to all three contacts. This will make old solder more flowable, easier to remove.
While heating one of the contacts, remove the solder from this contact using the desoldering pump. Repeat the same steps with all power jack contacts until you remove as much solder as possible.
Grab the power jack and carefully try removing it from the motherboard. Most likely you will not be able to remove the power jack the first time because there will be some solder bridges left between the contacts and traces on the motherboard. Carefully wiggle the power jack without applying any significant force and at the same time heat up all contacts one by one. This will help you to remove the power jack.
The DC power jack is almost removed from the motherboard.
Be careful. Inside the positive hole there is a copper sleeve which connects the terminal on one side of the motherboard with the traces on the other side. If you are removing the power jack with force, you can pull the sleeve from the hole. You don’t want to do that.
UPDATE: If you accidentally removed the internal sleeve, check out this post: How to fortify damaged power jack connection.
So, do not apply any force and make sure the solder is melted when you are removing the power jack. I hope you understand what I’m talking about.
After the power jack is removed, clean all oxidized contacts with a knife.
Apply a fresh coat of solder to all contacts on the power jack.
The power jack terminals will look dirty because of melted flux.
You can remove the flux using the tooth brush and alcohol. It’s not necessary but it will make your job looking clean.
Apply a fresh coat of solder to all power jack terminals on both sides of the motherboard.
This side has been coated.
And this side has been coated too.
Now you can install the power jack back on the motherboard. Put something under power jack so there is no gap between the jack and the motherboard. Now you are ready to solder the jack back in place.
Solder all power jack pins.
The job is done and the laptop DC power jack is fixed. B-E-A-utiful!
Now just install the motherboard back into the laptop and you are done.
If you find this article useful, please consider making a donation to the author. Thank you!
May 5th, 2010 at 9:04 am
perfect, it worked
May 3rd, 2010 at 3:11 pm
Thank you cj26000 will try that see what happens hate the thought about taking it apart again lolol no other choice
May 2nd, 2010 at 1:47 pm
r stalka,
1. Test laptop with external monitor. If external video works fine but there is not image on the internal LCD screen, check connection between the video cable and motherboard.
2. If there is no video on both screens, check the memory modules. Make sure both memory modules are seated correctly. Try reconnecting them.
April 29th, 2010 at 9:23 pm
Can i ask a question I replaced the power jack plug on toshiba satelite a 105 got it put all back together and now the display is not working did i miss something or didnt put something back right any help would be great thanks
April 27th, 2010 at 1:38 pm
LisaMarie,
You can search for a new motherboard by the Toshiba part number printed on the old motherboard.
Find the part number printed on a label in the memory compartment. The part number looks like K000019660. Probably you’ll have different numbers but it will look similar K0000XXXXX.
Google the part number and you’ll find the motherboard.
April 27th, 2010 at 6:51 am
Thank you for all the excellent information on this site. I have a Toshiba Satellite M35X-S149 and wondered if one of you can direct me to where I may purchase a new mobo and processor to replace the current one? I’d really like to upgrade. Thanks in advance.
April 20th, 2010 at 11:54 pm
Hello cj2600
I already did that. Old solder does not get mixed with new solder properly. I tried to remove both with a pump and wick but In the end the old solder always remains there.
I tried also with a pump which has a built in heating element.
This is a fairly new laptop. So I tried also with lead-free solder.
Any more ideas?
April 20th, 2010 at 9:49 pm
very usefull. if i was working i would absolutely donate. the article saved me some cash. thanks.
April 20th, 2010 at 4:11 pm
I encourage everyone to complain bitterly to the manufacturers, just like that’ll help. The jacks are DESIGNED to fail.
Every laptop power cord I’ve ever seen ends with a 4-5cm stiff plug — a great nasty long crowbar-like lever stuck into a not-very-strong solder joint in a PC board.
Think of the R&D that went into determining 1) exactly how long that prybar should be; 2) how flimsy the solder job could be; 3) how fiendishly difficult to repair they could make it; and 4) how long the manufacturer’s warrantee could be and still be sure that it would run out before the jack breaks.
If a car were designed this way there would be class-action suits forcing compensatory- and punitive damages and a massive recall. Why should we accept this from laptop makers?
Is there a lawer out there with a busted laptop jack?
April 20th, 2010 at 2:31 pm
KNAD,
Try adding some fresh solder to the solder joints. This will help to melt the existing solder. After that remove the solder with the pump.