This guide will explain how to repair a failed or loose DC power jack on a laptop computer yourself. Here’s my previous post related to DC power jack related issues.

Disclaimer: I’ve made these instructions only for people experienced with soldering and repairing computers. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this job, please do not open the laptop or you can permanently damage your computer. Take your laptop to a professional repair shop instead.
Use this repair guide at your own risk. :)

First of all, you’ll have to disassemble your laptop and remove the motherboard. Here are service manuals for some known laptop brands. Here are more Toshiba guides. If your laptop is not on the list, you’ll have to figure out yourself how to take it apart.


For this repair you’ll need the following tools.

1. Soldering iron or soldering station. I use Weller WES51 soldering station and for this job I set temperature to about 800-850°F.
2. I use high-tech rosin core silver-bearing solder from Radioshack with diameter 0.022″ ( Catalog #: 64-013 ). I think standard rosin core solder will work just fine.
3. Desoldering pump for removing solder around component leads. I use Edsyn Soldapullt pump, model DS 017.
4. 99% isopropyl alcohol and tooth brush for cleaning the motherboard from flux.
5. A new DC power jack, you can find a cheap one here.

DC jack repair tools

Laptop DC power jack repair guide.

Laptop DC power jack

As you see on the following picture, the solder drop on the positive terminal looks different than on other three contacts. That’s where the problem is. The positive pin is not making a good contact with the motherboard and because of that power to the laptop cuts off when I move the power plug inside the power jack.
I’m going to desolder the power jack from the motherboard, clean contacts on both power jack and motherboard and then solder it back in place – this is the proper way fixing the power problem.

DC power jack bottom side

Start desoldering process with adding some new fresh solder to all three contacts. This will make old solder more flowable, easier to remove.

Removing solder

While heating one of the contacts, remove the solder from this contact using the desoldering pump. Repeat the same steps with all power jack contacts until you remove as much solder as possible.

Sucking extra solder

Grab the power jack and carefully try removing it from the motherboard. Most likely you will not be able to remove the power jack the first time because there will be some solder bridges left between the contacts and traces on the motherboard. Carefully wiggle the power jack without applying any significant force and at the same time heat up all contacts one by one. This will help you to remove the power jack.

Remove DC power jack

The DC power jack is almost removed from the motherboard.
Be careful. Inside the positive hole there is a copper sleeve which connects the terminal on one side of the motherboard with the traces on the other side. If you are removing the power jack with force, you can pull the sleeve from the hole. You don’t want to do that.

UPDATE: If you accidentally removed the internal sleeve, check out this post: How to fortify damaged power jack connection.

So, do not apply any force and make sure the solder is melted when you are removing the power jack. I hope you understand what I’m talking about.

Separating jack from motherboard

After the power jack is removed, clean all oxidized contacts with a knife.

Cleaning power jack contacts

Apply a fresh coat of solder to all contacts on the power jack.

Coating contacts

The power jack terminals will look dirty because of melted flux.

Flux on motherboard

You can remove the flux using the tooth brush and alcohol. It’s not necessary but it will make your job looking clean.

Removing extra flux

Apply a fresh coat of solder to all power jack terminals on both sides of the motherboard.

Coating contacts

This side has been coated.

Cleaned contacts side 1

And this side has been coated too.

Cleaned contacts side 2

Now you can install the power jack back on the motherboard. Put something under power jack so there is no gap between the jack and the motherboard. Now you are ready to solder the jack back in place.

DC power jack installed

Solder all power jack pins.

Soldering power jack

The job is done and the laptop DC power jack is fixed. B-E-A-utiful!
Now just install the motherboard back into the laptop and you are done.

DC power jack fixed

 

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552 Responses to “DC power jack repair guide. Do-it-yourself instructions.”

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  1. 442
    kshen Says:

    Awesome. Thanks for this Tutorial.

    I changed the power jack on Compaq 2100 laptop without any issues. Wonderful tutorial with in detail instructions. First time I soldered in last 10 years. Everything worked great. I found the powerjack on ebay for $1.5

  2. 441
    lacquermaster Says:

    if the adapter jiggles at all when its plugged in,
    you have a bad solder joint inside the unit.

    If the adapter doesn’t move when its plugged in
    and still can’t get the laptop to turn on,
    you could have a bad battery, bad memory
    modules, or bad motherboard that could be
    refusing to connect circuits properly.

  3. 440
    Aaqib Says:

    Thanks for the help but I have tried this way of fixing the DC power jack but when i powered it on, the ‘charging light’ appeared for 2 seconds then it suddenly stopped working? So i tried to resolder but smoke was coming out of my DC power jack inside the laptop. What is the cause of this and do i need a new dc power jack because i never replaced it? Has this ‘smoke’from DC power jack happened to you?.Thanks for your time. Please reply
    Thanks

  4. 439
    cj2600 Says:

    ahmed,

    I have Asus laptop and I have changed the power jack as you mentioned previously. it is working for some time and another not.
    I don’t know the reason

    Maybe soldering is not good?

  5. 438
    ahmed Says:

    first thank you for your effort.
    I have Asus laptop and I have changed the power jack as you mentioned previously. it is working for some time and another not.
    I don’t know the reason, please if you can help me, I appreciate your help.
    thanks

  6. 437
    JENNY Says:

    Hi I have a Gateway T-6300 and I need to change the jack, how do I figure out which jack I need to buy for my laptop?

  7. 436
    cj2600 Says:

    David,

    I have a Toshiba M35X-S149. When the AC adapter is plugged in, the AC present indicator and the battery light both come on green. But the laptop won’t turn on. Could a weak or bad DC power jack connector terminal cause that?

    I think this problem is not related to the DC jack. Both lights turn on, it means the motherboard gets power from the AC adapter.
    Most likely it’s either RAM problem or motherboard failure.
    Try reseating memory modules.
    If it doesn’t help, here’s something to try. Press firmly on the top cover, somewhere in the area of right hinge. At the same time try turning it on (without removing pressure from the cover). If the laptop turns on when you apply pressure on the top cover, this is bad motherboard.
    Take a look at this post, could be useful: http://www.insidemylaptop.com/.....5x-laptop/

  8. 435
    David Says:

    I have a Toshiba M35X-S149. When the AC adapter is plugged in, the AC present indicator and the battery light both come on green. But the laptop won’t turn on. Could a weak or bad DC power jack connector terminal cause that? Thanks for any advice!

  9. 434
    Paul Jorge Says:

    what an awesome guide, think i’ll be able t fix m faulty DC jack and save a fortune paying someone else to do it.

  10. 433
    Nicholas Says:

    First things first. I’ve sold a plethora of those x1000′s… it seems to just be a faulty design where the a/c adapter has to be pressed firmly in place. If it is losing power with a SLIGHT motion, you probably have what is known as a ‘cold solder’, where the jack’s connection is not secure, or there is a hairline crack in one of the terminals.
    As far as the Toshiba, most laptops will have to have the heatsink, along with almost all other components removed. Although not always entirely necessary, it is highly recommended to handle JUST the board when soldering.

    Hope I was helpful.

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