In order to replace the power jack in your laptop you’ll have to remove the jack from the motherboard as I explained in the previous post: Replacing DC power jack.
While removing the jack you can accidentally pull out the internal copper coating (I’ll call it a sleeve) from the inside of the “+” terminal as it shown on the picture below.
The internal copper sleeve has been removed and cannot be installed back. If you solder the power jack back on the motherboard without this sleeve it might work but the connection between the “+” lead and motherboard will not be reliable.
In the following guide I explain how to fortify a damaged power jack connection. You can use this repair technique in some laptops with similar power jacks.
You can remove the copper sleeve from the power jack with a soldering guy and through it away. You cannot install this sleeve back into the terminal on the motherboard.
Find a small resistor or capacitor with thin leads. Cut off one of the leads. I’m going to use it to fortify the connection between the power jack and motherboard.
Shape the lead as it shown on the picture below.
Put the lead on the “+” connector on the power jack.
Solder the lead to the power jack.
Now I’m going to modify the “+” terminal on the PCB. Even though on the picture below it looks normal, it’s damaged inside (the internal coating has been removed).
Carefully scrape off green varnish around the whole on the “+” terminal on the PCB. You can use a small flathead screwdriver.
If the whole is not big enough for your modified power jack, you can widen it with an awl.
As you see on the picture below the whole on the terminal has been widened. Apply a fresh coat of solder on the clear area of the trace.
Install the power jack assembly on the motherboard. Make sure there is no gap between the jack and motherboard.
Here’s a view from the top side of the PCB.
Solder all pins except the modified “+” pin.
Now, when the power jack is secured, you can shape the lead as it shown on the picture below.
Solder the lead to the terminal. Remove excessive flux with an old tooth brash soaked in 99% alcohol.
Here’s a view from the bottom side of the motherboard.
Be very careful. Doing this modification you can damage the motherboard and make it unusable. Proceed on your own risk.
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October 9th, 2009 at 7:21 pm
good morning sir
my probloms ihave a lap hp compaq nx 7300
formatt systome all install drivers last i nstall wrong bios
restart sysatom now dosnt working screen?
blank screen
plz
hlp me
September 1st, 2009 at 7:35 am
paul wilmarth,
I wouldn’t do that. You can damage the motherboard. Use soldering gun instead.
September 1st, 2009 at 2:50 am
can you use drill bit to remove old jack
August 20th, 2009 at 12:10 am
Hi
My husband just had to repair my Dc jack on my acer 8930G the soldering was terrible, however we did not have any shrink wrap to put back on will this matter, the other problem is the length of cable they have left is so very very small it only just makes it to the connection, it was the black cable which had come adrift.
All seems to be working ok.
Thanks A Mil
July 25th, 2009 at 10:58 am
hi
my nx 7300 has a problem …
everythings perfect in baterry mode
BUT
when i plug the power jack, it runs slower BUT A LOT !!
has anyone had this problem before ?
i took a look at the power jack and it seems to be ok …
cheers
M@T
July 21st, 2009 at 10:51 pm
How much do laptop repair stores usually charge to resolder or replace the DC power jack? I’ve never disassembled a laptop before so I plan on taking my laptop to a computer/laptop repair store.
July 4th, 2009 at 9:10 pm
I recently bought a Dell Inspiron 5150 whose dc jack was completely ripped from the motherboard, I mean completely desoldered. Unfortunately, he copper sleeve which surrounds the adapter sensor pin, not the positive pin in this case, came off as well. I bought a new jack through eBay and resoldered it in place. Some trace metal surrounding the sensor hole remained on the top of the motherboard, but on the bottom there is no metal to solder the sensor pin to. Are you aware of any other location on the motherboard where I can solder a wire to complete the circuitry for the the sensor pin? Thanks for your help.
July 3rd, 2009 at 3:51 pm
(Sorry for the cross-post, mods, but I’m hoping for fast feedback!)
This site has been so helpful, as I solder and re-solder my Toshiba A60/65. Long story short, the copper “plug” had a crack, so I used the guide to “fortifying” the damaged jack, and now I have a new issue:
When I plug in the power supply to test, it (the power supply, not the laptop) beeps repeatedly (short-circuit, most likely). I’ve checked the board for stray solder, and find nothing, so, here’s my favor:
Can someone with a similar lappy test continuity between the different parts of the DC jack? Even without disassembly, take the battery out, and let me know if you get continuity between the main pin and the pins that connect to the exterior of the plug.
When testing the jack itself, off the machine, I get no continuity between any of the pins (except the 4 that hold it to the board, which is the same piece of metal). When it’s on the board, or when testing the board itself, I get continuity between ALL the points (main pin, middle pin, and 4 outer pins). I can’t imagine that is correct — any suggestions/feedback? TIA!
June 27th, 2009 at 10:53 pm
David,
I don’t know the right technical term for those plates.
Do you still have the copper plate on the other side of the motherboard? Maybe you can solder the jack to the remaining plate and then connect both sides with a short wire (jumper) if needed? I don’t know the layout of traces on your motherboard and cannot give you a better advice.
June 24th, 2009 at 3:54 pm
Thanks for the great tutorials on DC Jack repairs! I have an HP NX7300 and managed to pull off the tiny copper plate from the sensor pin’s through hole. So it’s not a sleeve, just one of those plates that surround all through holes. Any tips on fixing this or atleast what the technical term is for those plates? It must have happened to loads of people on all kinds of PCB’s.