In order to replace the power jack in your laptop you’ll have to remove the jack from the motherboard as I explained in the previous post: Replacing DC power jack.
While removing the jack you can accidentally pull out the internal copper coating (I’ll call it a sleeve) from the inside of the “+” terminal as it shown on the picture below.
The internal copper sleeve has been removed and cannot be installed back. If you solder the power jack back on the motherboard without this sleeve it might work but the connection between the “+” lead and motherboard will not be reliable.
In the following guide I explain how to fortify a damaged power jack connection. You can use this repair technique in some laptops with similar power jacks.
You can remove the copper sleeve from the power jack with a soldering guy and through it away. You cannot install this sleeve back into the terminal on the motherboard.
Find a small resistor or capacitor with thin leads. Cut off one of the leads. I’m going to use it to fortify the connection between the power jack and motherboard.
Shape the lead as it shown on the picture below.
Put the lead on the “+” connector on the power jack.
Solder the lead to the power jack.
Now I’m going to modify the “+” terminal on the PCB. Even though on the picture below it looks normal, it’s damaged inside (the internal coating has been removed).
Carefully scrape off green varnish around the whole on the “+” terminal on the PCB. You can use a small flathead screwdriver.
If the whole is not big enough for your modified power jack, you can widen it with an awl.
As you see on the picture below the whole on the terminal has been widened. Apply a fresh coat of solder on the clear area of the trace.
Install the power jack assembly on the motherboard. Make sure there is no gap between the jack and motherboard.
Here’s a view from the top side of the PCB.
Solder all pins except the modified “+” pin.
Now, when the power jack is secured, you can shape the lead as it shown on the picture below.
Solder the lead to the terminal. Remove excessive flux with an old tooth brush soaked in 99% alcohol.
Here’s a view from the bottom side of the motherboard.
Be very careful. Doing this modification you can damage the motherboard and make it unusable. Proceed on your own risk.
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January 12th, 2011 at 9:17 am
Hi I have hp dv6-1053cl power jack need to be replace, i remove jack from cable and solder new jack in but still not work,can you give me diagram for it.thank.
January 6th, 2011 at 2:00 am
For those of you looking for help, the article plainly says that if you don’t feel comfortable working with solder you should not try this. Motherboards have more than just the two layers you see. there can be as many as 6 layers sandwiched into the board. This repair trick will only work if the plated through hole(that is what they are called) you pulled out isn’t internally connected to another layer of the board, and there is no easy way to check that without an x-ray. The cause of pull out is too much heat for too long. Also, look into a solder sucker with an antistatic tip and a metal plunger that wont break after a few thousand uses.
If you break a component on the board, you need to replace it. Learn how to use a Volt-Ohm Meter to test components.
December 4th, 2010 at 5:53 pm
Just getting my feet wet replacing the DC power jack and bought a couple old toshibas A35s to practice with.
On your pictures you show the DC power jack with 6 points that are soldered. I understand the positive terminal and the copper bushing. I am assuming the center metal post is the negative and wonder does this also needs a copper contact point?
On the 2 outside tabs on each side, are these strictly for securing the tabs to the motherboard or do they serve a purpose?
I noticed playing and learning how to solder the DC power jack, when removing a jack there are also copper inserts that have come out.. is there purpose for tese or just for the DC power jack to have something to solder to for hold down?
I like your site and it is the best information site I have found on the internet.
December 3rd, 2010 at 4:49 am
I have done this as well and your guide on how to repair a DC jack is spot on and I actually got some good tips just by reading this article, so thanks! Now I will be using alcohol to clean the system and that pump gun for desoldering. All great idea’s.
October 27th, 2010 at 3:08 pm
Enrique,
Can you test AC adapter with a voltmeter? Make sure the adapter outputs correct voltage. If not, try replacing the adapter.
October 27th, 2010 at 2:58 pm
Hola amigos. mi duda es la siguiente, tengo una portátil toshiba a205 y hace un tiempo atrás tiene el problema de que no prende si le conecto el cargador. solo prende con la batería ya cargada. Gracias espero su ayuda
August 19th, 2010 at 6:48 am
All I can say is THANKS! This fortifying worked like a charm!!!
July 12th, 2010 at 9:10 pm
hey i got a compaq laptop only had it for a year and when i plug in the charger it says its plugged in but wont charge and i got a new charger so what do i do to fix it i really dont want to buy another plzz help thanx
June 14th, 2010 at 4:50 am
I have attempted to resolder a dc jack on my laptop. All soldering points look even, as the jack sits flat aginst the board and no spaces are identified in the soldering. However, when I connect the AC adapter the dc jack sparks. Is there something I can do to fix the sparking?
Thanks
May 21st, 2010 at 11:03 am
Hi,
I was trying to fix powerjack problem on toshiba satellite A75. I damaged on end of white ceramic component near the power jack with the solder. on the component its wirtten “F 12A”. (is is the same component which is visible in above pic no 6,7,8,&9) It has two metalic caps on its end. one matalic cap came off with when I was trying the solder I by mistake put on it. Is this component a fuse? How can I fix it?
Another tiny component named PC1 got a drop of solder on it. can that be fixed?
I will appreciate any help
Fillie