Toshiba Satellite model M35X power connector fix

posted in: DC jack | 64

Toshiba Satellite M35X model is known for it’s power connector problem. This issue has been covered on this blog a few times before in the following articles.

Toshiba Satellite M35X and Satellite A75 power jack and battery charge problem

Failed power jack workaround (guide for a Satellite A75 notebook similar to Satellite M35X)

Here’s another well written and documented guide submitted by Stephen Macuch. Thank you Stephen for the great pictures and very detailed instructions.

This is a view of the laptop power connector before the repair:

Power connector before repair

Inside the yellow circle is the main power connection from the connector to the board – note that you can see a dark circle completely around it, indicating that there is no solid metal connection.

Also note that it looks somewhat ‘burnt’ – this is indicative of sparking taking place. This connection carries 3 amps of current. The current then passes through the component labeled PF1 ( literally ‘Power Fuse 1’). It then is supposed to connect to this side of the part circled in red (‘PL1’) – but notice that flexing of the board as the connector was wiggled caused a crack you can see running horizontally under this end of this part.

Same view, after the repair:

Same view after repair

The green coating covering the metal leading up to the power connector was scraped off down to the bare copper of the board, in three places – the center pin, circled in yellow here, and the connector pins on both sides (see below). All were resoldered – on the top side of the board first, then touched up on the bottom (which is not where the primary electrical contact is made). The new broader, smoothly-tapered connection will be both physically stronger, and a better electrical connection.

Inside the red circle, you can see this was done for other part (PL1), as well.

Bottom view of connector, before the repair:

Bottom view of connector before repair

Again note that inside the circled areas, you can see dark circles where there should be solid metal, indicating that the original physical connection has been broken, and the parts are only transferring power due to the fact that they are touching . In fact, the only thing even holding the connector to the board is the connection in the bottom middle (between the two lower yellow circles) and it has a crack in it, as well.

Notice, also, the dried flux residue, indicating that this bottom-side soldering was done entirely, or touched up, by hand – and not cleaned afterwards.

The actual metal that conducts the power is actually of the top side of the board, where the connector is mounted, but the fact that the solder that flowed through mounting holes has cracked indicates is was not properly soldered in the first place.

As you can see in the two views below, all solder joints between the connector and the top side copper on the board now look much better. Increasing the size and coverage of the solder joints to the metal sides of the connector will make its mounting to the board physically much stronger as well, and better able to resist any side-to-side or up-and-down forces.

Power connector soldered

Power connector top view

Inside the red circles, you can see that both sides of that part PL1 have been well resoldered.

This bottom view of the board after the repair shows good flow of solder through to the bottom side at the time the joints were resoldered.

Connector resoldered bottom view

Here’s another common problem with this model:

Laptop locks up, freezes up or reboots when you touch the speakers

64 Responses

  1. Jeff,
    I’m using just regular solder, not sure exactly what type it is.
    To make it work properly you have to remove the power jack, then clean contacts on the motherboard and pins on the power jack, apply fresh coat of solder on contact and pins and then solder the jack back in place.

  2. PS if it is of any help I have the Toshiba M35X S149

  3. I have tried the original Toshiba fix using some electroinc solder I had around the house, however, by the time the battery was done charging the connection was loosened up apparently from the generated heat. If anyone has a successful fix that has lasted 6 months or better a year or more would you let me know what type of solder you used? I ordered a new jack and have not installed it yet, wanting to hopefully get it right the 1st time.

  4. Here’s some help for Toshiba Satellite M115 notebook. In this model the power jack is located on a pigtail cable. You don’t have to unsolder the jack from the motherboard. When you remove the motherboard, you unplug the broken jack and replace it with a new one. No soldering job needed.
    You can find a new power jack for Satellite M115 by the following part numbers: V000924240, V000926490 (for 15V power adapter).

    BTW, before you replace the power jack, make sure it’s not a problem with the AC adapter. Test your adapter with a voltmeter and check if the power cuts off when you move the power cord. In this case you’ll have to replace the adapter and most likely there is nothing wrong with the power jack.

  5. hello
    i am experiencing the exacrt same problem. except i have got a toshiba M115, and upon opening it up i learned the part and motherboard configuration are completely different than described above. can you help? thanks


  7. Ertan Pilevne

    I have a Hp Compaq NX 9010 laptop.
    Laptop’s original charger is exploding.
    I’m taking a new charger.
    Laptop is working only with battery.
    But not working with new charger.
    Charge ligth is not on.
    May be laptop mainboard charge parts is failure.
    Can you help me with on picture.
    Which parts must be replacing?
    I am testing charge parts of motherbord, but not find failure.
    Please help me.

  8. Ki Fischer

    HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! I tried the modified dongle, sigh… it didnt work. I have a toshiba M30 Satellite. Can you please help????????

  9. cj2600

    Witch connector you are asking about, there are four of them. :)
    First you disconnect the wireless antennas – top two arrows. Firmly grab the connector with your fingers and lift it up until the antenna cable is disconnected from the board.
    Second, you disconnect the video cable. Grab by the sides with your fingers and move towards the screen. There is no lock on this connector.
    Third, disconnect the power switch board cable (blue cable). This connector has a lock on it, so be VERY careful. Carefully open the lock by moving it to the left, towards the power switch board. After the connector is unlocked, pull the cable.
    Forth, unplug two more connectors.

  10. patrick

    are there any tutorials for acer notebooks?
    thx patrick

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