Toshiba Satellite model M35X power connector fix

posted in: DC jack | 64

Toshiba Satellite M35X model is known for it’s power connector problem. This issue has been covered on this blog a few times before in the following articles.

Toshiba Satellite M35X and Satellite A75 power jack and battery charge problem

Failed power jack workaround (guide for a Satellite A75 notebook similar to Satellite M35X)

Here’s another well written and documented guide submitted by Stephen Macuch. Thank you Stephen for the great pictures and very detailed instructions.

This is a view of the laptop power connector before the repair:

Power connector before repair

Inside the yellow circle is the main power connection from the connector to the board – note that you can see a dark circle completely around it, indicating that there is no solid metal connection.

Also note that it looks somewhat ‘burnt’ – this is indicative of sparking taking place. This connection carries 3 amps of current. The current then passes through the component labeled PF1 ( literally ‘Power Fuse 1’). It then is supposed to connect to this side of the part circled in red (‘PL1’) – but notice that flexing of the board as the connector was wiggled caused a crack you can see running horizontally under this end of this part.

Same view, after the repair:

Same view after repair

The green coating covering the metal leading up to the power connector was scraped off down to the bare copper of the board, in three places – the center pin, circled in yellow here, and the connector pins on both sides (see below). All were resoldered – on the top side of the board first, then touched up on the bottom (which is not where the primary electrical contact is made). The new broader, smoothly-tapered connection will be both physically stronger, and a better electrical connection.

Inside the red circle, you can see this was done for other part (PL1), as well.

Bottom view of connector, before the repair:

Bottom view of connector before repair

Again note that inside the circled areas, you can see dark circles where there should be solid metal, indicating that the original physical connection has been broken, and the parts are only transferring power due to the fact that they are touching . In fact, the only thing even holding the connector to the board is the connection in the bottom middle (between the two lower yellow circles) and it has a crack in it, as well.

Notice, also, the dried flux residue, indicating that this bottom-side soldering was done entirely, or touched up, by hand – and not cleaned afterwards.

The actual metal that conducts the power is actually of the top side of the board, where the connector is mounted, but the fact that the solder that flowed through mounting holes has cracked indicates is was not properly soldered in the first place.

As you can see in the two views below, all solder joints between the connector and the top side copper on the board now look much better. Increasing the size and coverage of the solder joints to the metal sides of the connector will make its mounting to the board physically much stronger as well, and better able to resist any side-to-side or up-and-down forces.

Power connector soldered

Power connector top view

Inside the red circles, you can see that both sides of that part PL1 have been well resoldered.

This bottom view of the board after the repair shows good flow of solder through to the bottom side at the time the joints were resoldered.

Connector resoldered bottom view

Here’s another common problem with this model:

Laptop locks up, freezes up or reboots when you touch the speakers


64 Responses

  1. garry oleary

    Well after taking my toshiba to the authorized toshiba warrenty repair people, inacomp on 12mile in southfield michigan and leaving a $45.00 diagnostic fee whether they fix it or not…lol really no kidding. they told me that a new part was $450.00 including labor and that it would be more cost effective to just buy a new computer. Thanks I left the forty-five dollars and ran out of the place, feeling glad that they didn’t robbed me of my wallet and cards too…lol. after looking at this blog and the great photos I decided to tackle the problem myself. now mind you I’ve never opened a laptop before and I’ve never seen a circut board either, but I managed to get the thing apart and open enought to see the circuit board and power connector, and as I was chewing my wrigley sperimnent gum, I decided to slip the doubled over wrapper in between the circuit board and the connector. And to my amazement the power light lit up and so did the charging battery light too. I’m not recommending this as a solution, but it worked for me….thank GOD…I can’t afford another computer or $450.00 for repairs….lol

  2. seanjim78,

    back again, my fixed satHELLite, has same problem again dc jack came away from the board thingy, what about wiring outside of laptop.

    Apparently, you didn’t solder it properly the first time. Make sure all contacts on motherboard and jack are clean and coated with fresh solder. Solder it back in.
    If you do a good job, the repair should last.

  3. seanjim78

    back again, my fixed satHELLite, has same problem again dc jack came away from the board thingy, what about wiring outside of laptop. adviseable or no

  4. I got M30X laptop, and there is a problem with power. When I try to turn it on (battery or cable) CPU fan work for 3s, and nothing happen – only power button and leds showsthet laptop is working. When i turn it on pressing the power connector (even without power cord connected) it starts normally… until I relese pushing this connector. It works the same way without battery – only with power cable – when I pulling the plug up.
    My friend desoldered and check power connector – it seems to be OK, then solder it wery precisely and still works the same. Do you know what can be wrong with this connection/MB?

  5. I am looking for a replacement for PL1, but I need to know what PL1 is. Does anyone know any specs about this part or where I can locate such information? I’ve already tried the National Parts Depot and Toshiba and they were unable to help me. Please reply soon.

  6. Brian,

    I am wondering what the part number pf1 is so I can buy a new one for this laptop m35x-s161.

    PF – power fuse? I don’t know the value of the fuse, but I think it could printed on the fuse.

    I read that the speakers need to have a good ground where is that exactly that is being mentioned?

    I mentioned about top cover grounding problem in this post.

  7. I am wondering what the part number pf1 is so I can buy a new one for this laptop m35x-s161. I got it used and it clearly has a problem where it blew out or something also the power jack looks like someone tried to fix it but did a horrible job. If this doesn’t fix the boot up, which wouldn’t surprise me, then what is the next possible cause? I read that the speakers need to have a good ground where is that exactly that is being mentioned?

  8. Virginie Ansanay

    Thanks a lot for your very helpful guide (good pictures !). It helped me a lot to disassemble my Toshiba MX30 and to fix the problem of battery charging and power connectivity.

  9. Hello there.My laptop is toshiba m35x like this gray one.I have problem with recharging the batery.Windows tell that the batery is into computer but the computer doesnt charge it.When i restart the computer the LED for battery lights for about 4-5 sec and then stops.I flashed the bios but didnt work.Any suggestions ?

  10. seanjim78

    just to say thx, first time i ever took a computer apart,
    apart from surfing the web thats all i know about computers.

    info here was what i needed to confirm what went wrong thx again

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