This guide will explain how to repair a failed or loose DC power jack on a laptop computer yourself. Here’s my previous post related to DC power jack related issues.
Disclaimer: I’ve made these instructions only for people experienced with soldering and repairing computers. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this job, please do not open the laptop or you can permanently damage your computer. Take your laptop to a professional repair shop instead.
Use this repair guide at your own risk.
First of all, you’ll have to disassemble your laptop and remove the motherboard. Here are service manuals for some known laptop brands. Here are more Toshiba guides. If your laptop is not on the list, you’ll have to figure out yourself how to take it apart.
For this repair you’ll need the following tools.
1. Soldering iron or soldering station. I use Weller WES51 soldering station and for this job I set temperature to about 800-850°F.
2. I use high-tech rosin core silver-bearing solder from Radioshack with diameter 0.022″ ( Catalog #: 64-013 ). I think standard rosin core solder will work just fine.
3. Desoldering pump for removing solder around component leads. I use Edsyn Soldapullt pump, model DS 017.
4. 99% isopropyl alcohol and tooth brush for cleaning the motherboard from flux.
5. A new DC power jack, you can find a cheap one here.
Laptop DC power jack repair guide.
As you see on the following picture, the solder drop on the positive terminal looks different than on other three contacts. That’s where the problem is. The positive pin is not making a good contact with the motherboard and because of that power to the laptop cuts off when I move the power plug inside the power jack.
I’m going to desolder the power jack from the motherboard, clean contacts on both power jack and motherboard and then solder it back in place – this is the proper way fixing the power problem.
Start desoldering process with adding some new fresh solder to all three contacts. This will make old solder more flowable, easier to remove.
While heating one of the contacts, remove the solder from this contact using the desoldering pump. Repeat the same steps with all power jack contacts until you remove as much solder as possible.
Grab the power jack and carefully try removing it from the motherboard. Most likely you will not be able to remove the power jack the first time because there will be some solder bridges left between the contacts and traces on the motherboard. Carefully wiggle the power jack without applying any significant force and at the same time heat up all contacts one by one. This will help you to remove the power jack.
The DC power jack is almost removed from the motherboard.
Be careful. Inside the positive hole there is a copper sleeve which connects the terminal on one side of the motherboard with the traces on the other side. If you are removing the power jack with force, you can pull the sleeve from the hole. You don’t want to do that.
UPDATE: If you accidentally removed the internal sleeve, check out this post: How to fortify damaged power jack connection.
So, do not apply any force and make sure the solder is melted when you are removing the power jack. I hope you understand what I’m talking about.
After the power jack is removed, clean all oxidized contacts with a knife.
Apply a fresh coat of solder to all contacts on the power jack.
The power jack terminals will look dirty because of melted flux.
You can remove the flux using the tooth brush and alcohol. It’s not necessary but it will make your job looking clean.
Apply a fresh coat of solder to all power jack terminals on both sides of the motherboard.
This side has been coated.
And this side has been coated too.
Now you can install the power jack back on the motherboard. Put something under power jack so there is no gap between the jack and the motherboard. Now you are ready to solder the jack back in place.
Solder all power jack pins.
The job is done and the laptop DC power jack is fixed. B-E-A-utiful!
Now just install the motherboard back into the laptop and you are done.
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May 11th, 2013 at 9:31 pm
Hi,
Thanks very much for this article. My girlfriend just gave me her HP pavilion dv4 to fix it because it doesn’t recognize when its powersupply is pugged in (white LED next to plug keeps off). I already checked the powersupply, its fine (provides 19.25V) so everything seems to point to a powerjack issue. But just after overviewing the Maintenance and Service Guide, where I noticed that the Powerjack is connected over a cable with the systemboard that pases exactly beneath the Mini Card compartment cover, which I opened now to check connectivity with my multimeter I figuered out that the 19.25V reaches at least its connectors on the systemboard.
As I don’t feel comfortable messing around with the systemboard, I would like to know if maybe the white LED or its resistor is burned. Should I check that, or is this more likely a systemboard issue, what do you think?
Thanks for any answer.
Mirko
April 2nd, 2013 at 5:17 am
Hi! I really appreciate more power 2 ur elbow.thnx so, much.
April 1st, 2013 at 5:50 pm
@ Gordon,
I think you can use any solder as long as you can melt it with your solder gun.
March 25th, 2013 at 12:31 pm
I have some 62/36/2 silver bearing solder (.015 diameter)that I used when making audio coax cables. will that work ok for this or should I get the .022 solder?
February 4th, 2013 at 4:46 am
@ ReidoSpeedo,
You need some soldering experience for this repair. If you have never use a solder gun in your life this could be a challenge.
January 24th, 2013 at 5:47 pm
I haven’t quite decided if I am going to attempt this as a newb on my Asus f50s, but kudos and gratitude to the poster, great and thorough instructions (enough to keep me on the fence about attempting a DIY). While seemingly a small thing, spending the effort out of good will to help save others money and time (and also keep money away from the ones/corporations who already have enough) is straight class. Thanks again
December 13th, 2012 at 6:23 am
I tried this on a HP Compac 6510b and failed. The soldering iron wasnt up to scratch and consequently the removal of the old connector was difficult – copper sleeves from the board came away with the broken connector. I tried removing and re-soldering but still no luck. About 8 hours work (i’m a novice) on my failure – I feel like crying. WAAAAAAAAAH!
November 14th, 2012 at 5:06 am
Successfully replaced the jack on my Acer 5532. I did accidentally remove the copper sleeve on the one connection, but was able to put it onto the new jack. Works fine now. Thanks!
November 7th, 2012 at 7:29 pm
Yellow Glue looking stuff is usually Rosin, Rosin has been used deliberately by solder manufacturers since the 1940s to make solder flow cleanly and is also there to ensure the solder does not become grainy as it cools. Washes off with 91% Isopropyl Alcohol. In some unusual cases, the glue looking stuff might be a different material used with newer solders, but serves the same purposes and cleans the same way.
NOTE: Modern electronics are become RoHS compliant, RoHs requires a totally different alloy for soldering, which alloy must not contain Lead. Repairing RoHS devices may cause mechanical issues if you add Lead alloy solders when repairing connections. Power jacks might not last very long if you resolder a RoHS board with Lead alloy solders. Just sayin. >25 years as an Electronics Technician.
May 26th, 2012 at 5:47 am
Hi I just replaced a jack on a good friends Toshiba a75 laptop because of your incredible instructions. He couldn’t afford a new one so I decided to help. I can’t thank you enough for taking the time to publish this guide. It worked fantastic. People like you renews my faith in the human race. Your amazing !! Thanks again