This guide will explain how to repair a failed or loose DC power jack on a laptop computer yourself. Here’s my previous post related to DC power jack related issues.
Disclaimer: I’ve made these instructions only for people experienced with soldering and repairing computers. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this job, please do not open the laptop or you can permanently damage your computer. Take your laptop to a professional repair shop instead.
Use this repair guide at your own risk.![]()
First of all, you’ll have to disassemble your laptop and remove the motherboard. Here are service manuals for some known laptop brands. Here are more Toshiba guides. If your laptop is not on the list, you’ll have to figure out yourself how to take it apart.
For this repair you’ll need the following tools.
1. Soldering iron or soldering station. I use Weller WES51 soldering station and for this job I set temperature to about 800-850°F.
2. I use high-tech rosin core silver-bearing solder from Radioshack with diameter 0.022″ ( Catalog #: 64-013 ). I think standard rosin core solder will work just fine.
3. Desoldering pump for removing solder around component leads. I use Edsyn Soldapullt pump, model DS 017.
4. 99% isopropyl alcohol and tooth brush for cleaning the motherboard from flux.
5. A new DC power jack, you can find a cheap one here.

Laptop DC power jack repair guide.

As you see on the following picture, the solder drop on the positive terminal looks different than on other three contacts. That’s where the problem is. The positive pin is not making a good contact with the motherboard and because of that power to the laptop cuts off when I move the power plug inside the power jack.
I’m going to desolder the power jack from the motherboard, clean contacts on both power jack and motherboard and then solder it back in place – this is the proper way fixing the power problem.

Start desoldering process with adding some new fresh solder to all three contacts. This will make old solder more flowable, easier to remove.

While heating one of the contacts, remove the solder from this contact using the desoldering pump. Repeat the same steps with all power jack contacts until you remove as much solder as possible.

Grab the power jack and carefully try removing it from the motherboard. Most likely you will not be able to remove the power jack the first time because there will be some solder bridges left between the contacts and traces on the motherboard. Carefully wiggle the power jack without applying any significant force and at the same time heat up all contacts one by one. This will help you to remove the power jack.

The DC power jack is almost removed from the motherboard.
Be careful. Inside the positive hole there is a copper sleeve which connects the terminal on one side of the motherboard with the traces on the other side. If you are removing the power jack with force, you can pull the sleeve from the hole. You don’t want to do that.
UPDATE: If you accidentally removed the internal sleeve, check out this post: How to fortify damaged power jack connection.
So, do not apply any force and make sure the solder is melted when you are removing the power jack. I hope you understand what I’m talking about.

After the power jack is removed, clean all oxidized contacts with a knife.

Apply a fresh coat of solder to all contacts on the power jack.

The power jack terminals will look dirty because of melted flux.

You can remove the flux using the tooth brush and alcohol. It’s not necessary but it will make your job looking clean.

Apply a fresh coat of solder to all power jack terminals on both sides of the motherboard.

This side has been coated.

And this side has been coated too.

Now you can install the power jack back on the motherboard. Put something under power jack so there is no gap between the jack and the motherboard. Now you are ready to solder the jack back in place.

Solder all power jack pins.

The job is done and the laptop DC power jack is fixed. B-E-A-utiful!
Now just install the motherboard back into the laptop and you are done.

If you find this article useful, please consider making a donation to the author. Thank you!
March 29th, 2012 at 10:42 am
I have had to repair my A70 power jack a twice. The last time was permanent. My machine cannot have a soldered connection at the keyboard side of the motherboard and the positive post (single post at back end of jack)or it shorts out. On the jack, before assembly, a small piece of wire wrapped around the positive post brings better contact between the jack and the motherboard. After soldering the other three posts (one negative and two anchors), check to see that your board can be powered up. I plug in the jack and press the start button. Then, if working, unplug it and reinforce female part of jack by putting a little epoxy along side of the jack, where it contacts the motherboard, to stop it from moving. It’s impossible to solder this on my machine because the fuse is in the way. Then reassemble the machine. Note beside the screw holes the screw size is indicated (F3, F5, F8). F8 is the longest and must be only put in F8 holes.
March 27th, 2012 at 12:45 pm
Thank you,
You are the best on the net. You give us break from those ripoff like the geeks and what have you. I fixed my problem by using your instructions on the dc power jack. The Geeks in Best buys asked for $800 saying I need to change the whole motherboard. I noticed I am loosing power every time the computer moves or evern vibrate. I am familiar with little sodering and fiddling with electronics. I felt very comfortable with your instructions and was able to fix my problems. I will donate soon because you more than desrve it.
Thanks
Fred
March 15th, 2012 at 1:50 pm
@ Brandy,
I would personally replace the entire power board. It’s more reliable repair.
By the way, it looks like Dell Inspiron 1546 and Inspiron 1545 power boards are identical.
You can buy a ndw power board for Dell Inspiron 1545 laptop here for about $20.
March 13th, 2012 at 1:52 pm
So my fiance and I replaced the power jack on my Inspiron 1546 laptop. However, It will not turn on now. When we plug in the AC adapter the power light turns on, but nothing else.
The power jack is actually mounted to its own board with a USB/Ethernet/VGA port. A ribbon connects the board to the motherboard.
I honestly feel that my fiance was a bit too rough with the power board because at one point it was slightly bent. Although he straightened it out, it worried me. I also noticed that not all of the sodder was cleaned off. Additionally, some of the green was scraped off around a few of the holes.
All I want to know is if it is worth attempting to resodder again and clean the power board up? Or buy a new power board for 79 bucks online?
Please adivse.
Thanks,
March 2nd, 2012 at 11:12 pm
You are really Help People..Thanks a lot for your Service..Bro!
God Bless you ..!
March 2nd, 2012 at 3:03 pm
@ Andrew McElroy,
1. After you replaced the DC jack test it with a multimeter. Make sure there “+” and “-” not shorted.
2. Plug in the AC adapter into the jack and test voltage on “+” and “-” terminals. Make sure the motherboard gets power.
March 1st, 2012 at 8:44 pm
Have a Toshiba computer and the power jack has came loose and is inside the computer. Does this mean that it probably is not working, because it should be connected to the mother board? What would be the best way to repair?
February 22nd, 2012 at 8:59 am
i need a DC Jack for Lenovo G460 Can you let me know which is the best place i can get this.
VJ
February 21st, 2012 at 11:50 pm
Hi
Excellent advice would it be possible for you to explain how to test the power jack conections with a multimeter prior to re-installing back into laptop.
Thanks Andy
February 13th, 2012 at 5:55 pm
Hey there, great tutorial, glad I found it. Question I have is since I dont have that much money what would you suggest as the best low cost wattage soldering iron to get? I was about to just buy one at amazon for $40 (WLC100 40w), but then began to think I can get one down at harbor freight for $10 (30w). I dont see any usage more then once in a while. Thought the WLC100 sounds good, it’ll take 3 days before I get it, whereas HF is down the rod a couple miles.
Thanks,
Gerry