This guide will explain how to repair a failed or loose DC power jack on a laptop computer yourself. Here’s my previous post related to DC power jack related issues.
Disclaimer: I’ve made these instructions only for people experienced with soldering and repairing computers. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this job, please do not open the laptop or you can permanently damage your computer. Take your laptop to a professional repair shop instead.
Use this repair guide at your own risk. 
First of all, you’ll have to disassemble your laptop and remove the motherboard. Here you’ll find disassembly instructions for some major laptop brands such as IBM, Dell, HP, Compaq, Toshiba. If your laptop is not on the list, you’ll have to figure out yourself how to take it apart.
For this repair you’ll need the following tools.
1. Soldering iron or soldering station. I use Weller WES51 soldering station and for this job I set temperature to about 800-850°F.
2. I use high-tech rosin core silver-bearing solder from Radioshack with diameter 0.022″ ( Catalog #: 64-013 ). I think standard rosin core solder will work just fine.
3. Desoldering pump for removing solder around component leads. I use Edsyn Soldapullt pump, model DS 017.
4. 99% isopropyl alcohol and tooth brash for cleaning the motherboard from flux.
5. A new DC power jack, you can find a cheap one here.
Laptop DC power jack repair guide.
As you see on the following picture, the solder drop on the positive terminal looks different than on other three contacts. That’s where the problem is. The positive pin is not making a good contact with the motherboard and because of that power to the laptop cuts off when I move the power plug inside the power jack.
I’m going to desolder the power jack from the motherboard, clean contacts on both power jack and motherboard and then solder it back in place – this is the proper way fixing the power problem.
Start desoldering process with adding some new fresh solder to all three contacts. This will make old solder more flowable, easier to remove.
While heating one of the contacts, remove the solder from this contact using the desoldering pump. Repeat the same steps with all power jack contacts until you remove as much solder as possible.
Grab the power jack and carefully try removing it from the motherboard. Most likely you will not be able to remove the power jack the first time because there will be some solder bridges left between the contacts and traces on the motherboard. Carefully wiggle the power jack without applying any significant force and at the same time heat up all contacts one by one. This will help you to remove the power jack.
The DC power jack is almost removed from the motherboard.
Be careful. Inside the positive hole there is a copper sleeve witch connects the terminal on one side of the motherboard with the traces on the other side. If you are removing the power jack with force, you can pull the sleeve from the hole. You don’t want to do that.
UPDATE: If you accidentally removed the internal sleeve, check out this post: How to fortify damaged power jack connection.
So, do not apply any force and make sure the solder is melted when you are removing the power jack. I hope you understand what I’m talking about.
After the power jack is removed, clean all oxidized contacts with a knife.
Apply a fresh coat of solder to all contacts on the power jack.
The power jack terminals will look dirty because of melted flux.
You can remove the flux using the tooth brash and alcohol. It’s not necessary but it will make your job looking clean.
Apply a fresh coat of solder to all power jack terminals on both sides of the motherboard.
This side has been coated.
And this side has been coated too.
Now you can install the power jack back on the motherboard. Put something under power jack so there is no gap between the jack and the motherboard. Now you are ready to solder the jack back in place.
Solder all power jack pins.
The job is done and the laptop DC power jack is fixed. B-E-A-utiful!
Now just install the motherboard back into the laptop and you are done.
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July 29th, 2009 at 8:49 am
Hi! I have a problem with the PowerJack on an LG LW75 Express, would the Jack you offer on eBay fit onto the board? Thanks in advance!
Kind Regards
Viktor
July 28th, 2009 at 12:22 pm
My sister’s laptop finally gave out on her and it seems as if the issue is with the power jack. So, (takes deep breath) I will be attempting this repair myself. I’ve called several authorized Toshiba repair shops and they’ve all given me the same crappy price to repair it.
I’ll let you guys know how this turns out since I’ve never even opened a laptop before. =[
July 22nd, 2009 at 4:24 pm
just completed changing the jacks the guide was very helpful in getting it out, especially adding more solder before using the desoldering pump
Thank you!!
July 21st, 2009 at 9:29 pm
I liked Gene Goldstein post 316 on cutting away a small part of the case instead of removing everything. Do you have pictures or drawings to help me if I go the easy route?
Thank You!
July 19th, 2009 at 11:33 am
I’ve added a post to your companion instructions that guide the reader on how to completely remove the motherboard, and this comment is pertinent.
While complete removal of the motherboard is no doubt the “professional” way to make this DC connector repair, it is much more complicated than necessary and can introduce the kinds of collateral damage to other components because of the fragile wires and connectors that must be removed.
My solution (described in the associated post) is to use a Dremel tool to carefully cut away a small part of the bottom of the plastic case that conceals the DC connector. (The portion of the case that is removed is replaced after the repair.) The metal shielding that then conceals the connector’s solder joints can be carefully bent away temporarily to allow easy access for solder. I placed a small section of electrical tape between the underside of the circuit board and the metal shielding to ensure that when it was bent back into place there is no risk of a short circuit.
This “orthoscopic surgical” approach to the DC connector repair is much simpler to accomplish than a complete removal of the circuit board. The complete repair took me about 30 minutes. The small cuts made by the Dremel tool can be sealed with black silicon for cosmetic reasons, though that is not necessary. Just be sure that when the Dremel rotary cutter is used, one does not cut into the metal shielding. Make the cuts slowly and stop as soon as metal becomes visible through the plastic groove of the cut. Then the section of case can be very easily lifted away.
July 13th, 2009 at 6:32 pm
Water spilled on my laptop and i found out after three days i tried to turn it upside down and warm it abit but the keyboard keys still does not work, what can I do
July 7th, 2009 at 11:13 am
Brian, sounds like the same problem I had. The copper sleeve at one of the contacts came loose and I couldn’t replace it. I continued soldering anyway. The solder dripped to the other side of the board covering part of it. I think this is causing a short circuit, but I’m not sure. I’m don’t have the knowledge to make a diagnosis.
July 3rd, 2009 at 3:49 pm
This site has been so helpful, as I solder and re-solder my Toshiba A60/65. Long story short, the copper “plug” had a crack, so I used the guide to “fortifying” the damaged jack, and now I have a new issue:
When I plug in the power supply to test, it (the power supply, not the laptop) beeps repeatedly (short-circuit, most likely). I’ve checked the board for stray solder, and find nothing, so, here’s my favor:
Can someone with a similar lappy test continuity between the different parts of the DC jack? Even without disassembly, take the battery out, and let me know if you get continuity between the main pin and the pins that connect to the exterior of the plug.
When testing the jack itself, off the machine, I get no continuity between any of the pins (except the 4 that hold it to the board, which is the same piece of metal). When it’s on the board, or when testing the board itself, I get continuity between ALL the points (main pin, middle pin, and 4 outer pins). I can’t imagine that is correct — any suggestions/feedback? TIA!
July 3rd, 2009 at 1:52 pm
I resoldered the dc jack, but now I can’t even boot. The processor starts and immediately stops. If I had to guess, I probably fried or short circuit the board. Unless anyone believes I still have a chance, I’m done. It was good while it lasted. I had fun.
It’s Friday afternoon, time for an ice cold beer. Thank you laptoprepair101.com. Great site!
July 3rd, 2009 at 10:31 am
I was hoping to write this post from my old notebook. Everything started fine, I got power which gave me incredible satisfaction and sense of achievement. The fix actually worked. But I couldn’t boot Windows XP. After several tries to reinstall the OS, the DC jack came loose. Apparently my soldering was not up to par.
To summarize, the fix did work and I got to see the screen of my laptop for the first time in 2 years. The bad news is that I couldn’t boot the OS. Close but no ticket.
I am not ready to give up. I came too close to give up now. I will start over.