This guide will explain how to repair a failed or loose DC power jack on a laptop computer yourself. Here’s my previous post related to DC power jack related issues.
Disclaimer: I’ve made these instructions only for people experienced with soldering and repairing computers. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this job, please do not open the laptop or you can permanently damage your computer. Take your laptop to a professional repair shop instead.
Use this repair guide at your own risk.
First of all, you’ll have to disassemble your laptop and remove the motherboard. Here are service manuals for some known laptop brands. Here are more Toshiba guides. If your laptop is not on the list, you’ll have to figure out yourself how to take it apart.
For this repair you’ll need the following tools.
1. Soldering iron or soldering station. I use Weller WES51 soldering station and for this job I set temperature to about 800-850°F.
2. I use high-tech rosin core silver-bearing solder from Radioshack with diameter 0.022″ ( Catalog #: 64-013 ). I think standard rosin core solder will work just fine.
3. Desoldering pump for removing solder around component leads. I use Edsyn Soldapullt pump, model DS 017.
4. 99% isopropyl alcohol and tooth brush for cleaning the motherboard from flux.
5. A new DC power jack, you can find a cheap one here.
Laptop DC power jack repair guide.
As you see on the following picture, the solder drop on the positive terminal looks different than on other three contacts. That’s where the problem is. The positive pin is not making a good contact with the motherboard and because of that power to the laptop cuts off when I move the power plug inside the power jack.
I’m going to desolder the power jack from the motherboard, clean contacts on both power jack and motherboard and then solder it back in place – this is the proper way fixing the power problem.
Start desoldering process with adding some new fresh solder to all three contacts. This will make old solder more flowable, easier to remove.
While heating one of the contacts, remove the solder from this contact using the desoldering pump. Repeat the same steps with all power jack contacts until you remove as much solder as possible.
Grab the power jack and carefully try removing it from the motherboard. Most likely you will not be able to remove the power jack the first time because there will be some solder bridges left between the contacts and traces on the motherboard. Carefully wiggle the power jack without applying any significant force and at the same time heat up all contacts one by one. This will help you to remove the power jack.
The DC power jack is almost removed from the motherboard.
Be careful. Inside the positive hole there is a copper sleeve which connects the terminal on one side of the motherboard with the traces on the other side. If you are removing the power jack with force, you can pull the sleeve from the hole. You don’t want to do that.
UPDATE: If you accidentally removed the internal sleeve, check out this post: How to fortify damaged power jack connection.
So, do not apply any force and make sure the solder is melted when you are removing the power jack. I hope you understand what I’m talking about.
After the power jack is removed, clean all oxidized contacts with a knife.
Apply a fresh coat of solder to all contacts on the power jack.
The power jack terminals will look dirty because of melted flux.
You can remove the flux using the tooth brush and alcohol. It’s not necessary but it will make your job looking clean.
Apply a fresh coat of solder to all power jack terminals on both sides of the motherboard.
This side has been coated.
And this side has been coated too.
Now you can install the power jack back on the motherboard. Put something under power jack so there is no gap between the jack and the motherboard. Now you are ready to solder the jack back in place.
Solder all power jack pins.
The job is done and the laptop DC power jack is fixed. B-E-A-utiful!
Now just install the motherboard back into the laptop and you are done.
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August 20th, 2010 at 9:15 am
First things first. I’ve sold a plethora of those x1000′s… it seems to just be a faulty design where the a/c adapter has to be pressed firmly in place. If it is losing power with a SLIGHT motion, you probably have what is known as a ‘cold solder’, where the jack’s connection is not secure, or there is a hairline crack in one of the terminals.
As far as the Toshiba, most laptops will have to have the heatsink, along with almost all other components removed. Although not always entirely necessary, it is highly recommended to handle JUST the board when soldering.
Hope I was helpful.
July 6th, 2010 at 1:26 pm
Hi, there
I has the Compaq Presario X1000 and I am not sure what wrong with it. It might be something with the charger or the DC power jack. It still working well but most of the time, I have to adjust the charger pin all the time to make the computer to work if not it will not charge in their. Should I but the new DC power jack or new charger. I hope you will understand what I try to say. Please send to my email that I provide it to you. Thank you ver much,,ed
June 25th, 2010 at 12:38 am
frank,
All laptops are different, even Toshibas.
Take a look at this site: http://www.irisvista.com/tech/
Maybe you’ll find your laptop in there.
June 22nd, 2010 at 12:21 am
I have a toshiba laptop I’m workin’ on, but I cannot figure out how to get to the dc power jack on the inside. Do I need to take out the torq-T6 screws on top of the processor protector to do this?
June 11th, 2010 at 5:12 pm
So, first and formost, I want to thank you for all the help youve provided over time. Thanks, alot.
I have an acer aspire 3620, and a while ago, the power supply stopped functioning. So, I purchased a universsal power supply, by HP. One of the fittings was a bit small, but it still fit. Over time, the connection has been becoming less stable. It got to the point to where I had to use rubber bands to hold the plug in the correct position, so it would supply power to the machine. Now, the charger rarely, if ever makes contact. I have to literally shove the plug into the hole to get it to connect. Well, the laptops battery died, and Ive given up on trying to get it in. So, I took a look at the input. It seems as if the yellow input has been pushed back, to the point to where I cant make a connection. Might this be the case? Is it easily solvable? Can I just, move it up and super glue it? Thanks in advance.
June 11th, 2010 at 4:39 pm
I ordered a new power jack and it is slightly different from the one I had. The new one looks exactly like the one above with two “prongs”, one on each side, in addition to the + and – connectors. The old one has 4 “prongs”, two on each side, in addition to the + and – connector. The new one fits in the slot no problem. Will this jack still work and do the side prongs have anything to do with the power or are they just to fasten the jack to the motherboard?
May 30th, 2010 at 10:24 am
Fillie,
There’s another one at the front of the board, near the battery connector. You can get them here, or try a site like Mouser, whoever has the price and selection you want.
The component you’re talking about is a fuse. That’s why it’s located so close to the DC jack.
http://search.digikey.com/scri.....F3341CT-ND
May 29th, 2010 at 7:14 am
i’ve tried to follow this tutorial but i made a mess with the desoldering and i broke some internal copper sleeve. is there any solution to fix it? i mean, is there any workaround to put 2 cables somewhere else? any suggestions are appreciated.
May 28th, 2010 at 6:48 pm
while doing such repair I damaged component “F 12A” as seen in 2nd pic. does some one know what this component is and how can I fix it?
Thanks for your help
May 15th, 2010 at 4:55 pm
cj2600,
The pins all look straight and even, and I can’t see anything wrong with the socket. Could there be something stuck within the socket itself that would keep one or more pins from making contact, or keep the chip from sitting properly?
Thanks very much for your response. Yes, I’ve tried reseating the CPU many times, all with the same result. “Walking” the chip back and forth by turning the screw in the socket doesn’t seem to work, it seems to be seated in but I get the same results.