This guide will explain how to repair a failed or loose DC power jack on a laptop computer yourself.

Disclaimer: I’ve made these instructions only for people experienced with soldering and repairing computers. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this job, please do not open the laptop or you can permanently damage your computer. Take your laptop to a professional repair shop instead.
Use this repair guide at your own risk. :)


For this repair you’ll need the following tools.

1. Soldering iron or soldering station. I use Weller WES51 soldering station and for this job I set temperature to about 800-850°F.
2. I use high-tech rosin core silver-bearing solder from Radioshack with diameter 0.022″ ( Catalog #: 64-013 ). I think standard rosin core solder will work just fine.
3. Desoldering pump for removing solder around component leads. I use Edsyn Soldapullt pump, model DS 017.
4. 99% isopropyl alcohol and tooth brush for cleaning the motherboard from flux.
5. A new DC power jack.

DC jack repair tools

Laptop DC power jack repair guide.

Laptop DC power jack

As you see on the following picture, the solder drop on the positive terminal looks different than on other three contacts. That’s where the problem is. The positive pin is not making a good contact with the motherboard and because of that power to the laptop cuts off when I move the power plug inside the power jack.
I’m going to desolder the power jack from the motherboard, clean contacts on both power jack and motherboard and then solder it back in place – this is the proper way fixing the power problem.

DC power jack bottom side

Start desoldering process with adding some new fresh solder to all three contacts. This will make old solder more flowable, easier to remove.

Removing solder

While heating one of the contacts, remove the solder from this contact using the desoldering pump. Repeat the same steps with all power jack contacts until you remove as much solder as possible.

Sucking extra solder

Grab the power jack and carefully try removing it from the motherboard. Most likely you will not be able to remove the power jack the first time because there will be some solder bridges left between the contacts and traces on the motherboard. Carefully wiggle the power jack without applying any significant force and at the same time heat up all contacts one by one. This will help you to remove the power jack.

Remove DC power jack

The DC power jack is almost removed from the motherboard.
Be careful. Inside the positive hole there is a copper sleeve which connects the terminal on one side of the motherboard with the traces on the other side. If you are removing the power jack with force, you can pull the sleeve from the hole. You don’t want to do that.

UPDATE: If you accidentally removed the internal sleeve, check out this post: How to fortify damaged power jack connection.

So, do not apply any force and make sure the solder is melted when you are removing the power jack. I hope you understand what I’m talking about.

Separating jack from motherboard

After the power jack is removed, clean all oxidized contacts with a knife.

Cleaning power jack contacts

Apply a fresh coat of solder to all contacts on the power jack.

Coating contacts

The power jack terminals will look dirty because of melted flux.

Flux on motherboard

You can remove the flux using the tooth brush and alcohol. It’s not necessary but it will make your job looking clean.

Removing extra flux

Apply a fresh coat of solder to all power jack terminals on both sides of the motherboard.

Coating contacts

This side has been coated.

Cleaned contacts side 1

And this side has been coated too.

Cleaned contacts side 2

Now you can install the power jack back on the motherboard. Put something under power jack so there is no gap between the jack and the motherboard. Now you are ready to solder the jack back in place.

DC power jack installed

Solder all power jack pins.

Soldering power jack

The job is done and the laptop DC power jack is fixed. B-E-A-utiful!
Now just install the motherboard back into the laptop and you are done.

DC power jack fixed

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523 Comments

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  1. 473
    Lorenzo Mcgood Says:

    Listening your advice in this page I have repaired my old notebook Acer Travelmate 2700 famous all over the world and all over the net for the same problem that I had. I have been very satisfied, because I am a beginner in this kind of reparation for notebook and I am new especially in the field of the soldering.
    You had forgot to say just one simple thing, after unsoldered the power jack (p.j)on the motherboard (add this) you can remove the p.j. using a cutter like a lever, this allow you to have a strong and delicate lever at the same time, if you have removed almost all the lead, this operation will be easier.

    Thanks a lot for this amazing website ! Sorry for my english ! I am Italian !

  2. 472
    Sam Says:

    Great stumble. Can i use d guide above for my dell d600.i’v packd it aside runin 2 4months nw. The problem is that it do send d DC charges back to the Adapter,then d adapter greenlight goes off, and so it wont power up at all

  3. 471
    Dave Messenger Says:

    Just wanted to post a note to say thanks so much for your guide, it proved invaluable and I now have a laptop working as it should again after putting up with a dodgy AC jack for months!
    It is definitely not an easy task though so take care if you need to do the same and make sure you get the tools you need!

  4. 470
    simon ryback Says:

    I repaired one yesterday, following your instructions. managed to get it done. excellent site for reference. thanks

  5. 469
    phet Says:

    Great work!! I can’t wait to start soldering my laptop!

  6. 468
    vi3x Says:

    Hi cj2600, nice article and great work on the broken power jack!

    Any idea on how to fix a zd7000? I’m switching from a power jack to a power cord with external plug, but seems like I can’t figure out how to connect it properly. I had 4 contacts: 1 positive, 1 negative (small copper strip on the lower part of the former power jack) and 2 contacts on the side (that’s where the jack casing went into). Initially, I easily connected the positive contact and shortened every other contact to negative. The laptop powered on a few times only for a bunch of seconds, then it stopped responding. Then i connected only the positive and negative contacts, leaving the other two alone and now my laptop is only charging the battery but I can’t use it on DC power… seems like the current is flowing only through the recharge circuit and not through the “main power” one…

  7. 467
    Lucas Johnston Says:

    Dear Sir / Madame,

    In the tutorial you say that before you plug in the DC-jack, “apply a fresh coat of solder to all power jack terminals on both sides of the motherboard”.

    I am working on a laptop at the moment where this action is definately required because I think the connection is bad. Also, when I test the “+ terminal” with the voltmeter I can see it there is a resistance of 2.8 K Ohm. Is this normal?

    This procedure seems really difficult. Is there a special technique to it? If so, could you maybe explain it?

    Sincerely,

    Lucas Johnston

  8. 466
    Bren Says:

    I have removed all of the solder from the pins and I am heating each one individually and wiggling it, but it’s not budging. The DC jack it self is getting so hot I cant even touch it or anywhere around it, but it’s still not budging. Any idea? It is the same exact one you show in the tutorial.

  9. 465
    Cyrille Says:

    Hello!

    My Toshiba A60 is in big trouble! When the AC is plugged in the power adapter emits regular continuous beeps! I disassembled the laptop because I thought I had a standard trouble about the AC jack… But visually from the outward it seems neat! Where could the trouble come from? Tested also without the battery…
    THANKS a lot for your GREAT site!!!

  10. 464
    cj2600 Says:

    @ Brian,
    Sorry cannot give you a good advice without seeing the laptop.

    is there any common mistakes made that may give this response…

    Most common mistakes are bad soldering and damaged traces on the motherboard.

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