This guide will explain how to repair a failed or loose DC power jack on a laptop computer yourself. Here’s my previous post related to DC power jack related issues.
Disclaimer: I’ve made these instructions only for people experienced with soldering and repairing computers. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this job, please do not open the laptop or you can permanently damage your computer. Take your laptop to a professional repair shop instead.
Use this repair guide at your own risk.
First of all, you’ll have to disassemble your laptop and remove the motherboard. Here are service manuals for some known laptop brands. Here are more Toshiba guides. If your laptop is not on the list, you’ll have to figure out yourself how to take it apart.
For this repair you’ll need the following tools.
1. Soldering iron or soldering station. I use Weller WES51 soldering station and for this job I set temperature to about 800-850°F.
2. I use high-tech rosin core silver-bearing solder from Radioshack with diameter 0.022″ ( Catalog #: 64-013 ). I think standard rosin core solder will work just fine.
3. Desoldering pump for removing solder around component leads. I use Edsyn Soldapullt pump, model DS 017.
4. 99% isopropyl alcohol and tooth brush for cleaning the motherboard from flux.
5. A new DC power jack, you can find a cheap one here.
Laptop DC power jack repair guide.
As you see on the following picture, the solder drop on the positive terminal looks different than on other three contacts. That’s where the problem is. The positive pin is not making a good contact with the motherboard and because of that power to the laptop cuts off when I move the power plug inside the power jack.
I’m going to desolder the power jack from the motherboard, clean contacts on both power jack and motherboard and then solder it back in place – this is the proper way fixing the power problem.
Start desoldering process with adding some new fresh solder to all three contacts. This will make old solder more flowable, easier to remove.
While heating one of the contacts, remove the solder from this contact using the desoldering pump. Repeat the same steps with all power jack contacts until you remove as much solder as possible.
Grab the power jack and carefully try removing it from the motherboard. Most likely you will not be able to remove the power jack the first time because there will be some solder bridges left between the contacts and traces on the motherboard. Carefully wiggle the power jack without applying any significant force and at the same time heat up all contacts one by one. This will help you to remove the power jack.
The DC power jack is almost removed from the motherboard.
Be careful. Inside the positive hole there is a copper sleeve which connects the terminal on one side of the motherboard with the traces on the other side. If you are removing the power jack with force, you can pull the sleeve from the hole. You don’t want to do that.
UPDATE: If you accidentally removed the internal sleeve, check out this post: How to fortify damaged power jack connection.
So, do not apply any force and make sure the solder is melted when you are removing the power jack. I hope you understand what I’m talking about.
After the power jack is removed, clean all oxidized contacts with a knife.
Apply a fresh coat of solder to all contacts on the power jack.
The power jack terminals will look dirty because of melted flux.
You can remove the flux using the tooth brush and alcohol. It’s not necessary but it will make your job looking clean.
Apply a fresh coat of solder to all power jack terminals on both sides of the motherboard.
This side has been coated.
And this side has been coated too.
Now you can install the power jack back on the motherboard. Put something under power jack so there is no gap between the jack and the motherboard. Now you are ready to solder the jack back in place.
Solder all power jack pins.
The job is done and the laptop DC power jack is fixed. B-E-A-utiful!
Now just install the motherboard back into the laptop and you are done.
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September 19th, 2011 at 2:46 am
Great stumble. Can i use d guide above for my dell d600.i’v packd it aside runin 2 4months nw. The problem is that it do send d DC charges back to the Adapter,then d adapter greenlight goes off, and so it wont power up at all
September 6th, 2011 at 7:50 am
Just wanted to post a note to say thanks so much for your guide, it proved invaluable and I now have a laptop working as it should again after putting up with a dodgy AC jack for months!
It is definitely not an easy task though so take care if you need to do the same and make sure you get the tools you need!
August 24th, 2011 at 1:40 pm
I repaired one yesterday, following your instructions. managed to get it done. excellent site for reference. thanks
August 20th, 2011 at 4:59 am
Great work!! I can’t wait to start soldering my laptop!
August 18th, 2011 at 1:31 pm
Hi cj2600, nice article and great work on the broken power jack!
Any idea on how to fix a zd7000? I’m switching from a power jack to a power cord with external plug, but seems like I can’t figure out how to connect it properly. I had 4 contacts: 1 positive, 1 negative (small copper strip on the lower part of the former power jack) and 2 contacts on the side (that’s where the jack casing went into). Initially, I easily connected the positive contact and shortened every other contact to negative. The laptop powered on a few times only for a bunch of seconds, then it stopped responding. Then i connected only the positive and negative contacts, leaving the other two alone and now my laptop is only charging the battery but I can’t use it on DC power… seems like the current is flowing only through the recharge circuit and not through the “main power” one…
July 9th, 2011 at 12:03 pm
Dear Sir / Madame,
In the tutorial you say that before you plug in the DC-jack, “apply a fresh coat of solder to all power jack terminals on both sides of the motherboard”.
I am working on a laptop at the moment where this action is definately required because I think the connection is bad. Also, when I test the “+ terminal” with the voltmeter I can see it there is a resistance of 2.8 K Ohm. Is this normal?
This procedure seems really difficult. Is there a special technique to it? If so, could you maybe explain it?
Sincerely,
Lucas Johnston
July 8th, 2011 at 1:58 pm
I have removed all of the solder from the pins and I am heating each one individually and wiggling it, but it’s not budging. The DC jack it self is getting so hot I cant even touch it or anywhere around it, but it’s still not budging. Any idea? It is the same exact one you show in the tutorial.
June 16th, 2011 at 8:55 pm
Hello!
My Toshiba A60 is in big trouble! When the AC is plugged in the power adapter emits regular continuous beeps! I disassembled the laptop because I thought I had a standard trouble about the AC jack… But visually from the outward it seems neat! Where could the trouble come from? Tested also without the battery…
THANKS a lot for your GREAT site!!!
May 30th, 2011 at 1:48 pm
@ Brian,
Sorry cannot give you a good advice without seeing the laptop.
Most common mistakes are bad soldering and damaged traces on the motherboard.
May 30th, 2011 at 12:12 pm
@ medion akkus,
Take a look at this DC jack repair guide for Toshiba laptops. I believe you can do same repair on Satellite L500 laptops.