This guide will explain how to repair a failed or loose DC power jack on a laptop computer yourself.

Disclaimer: I’ve made these instructions only for people experienced with soldering and repairing computers. If you don’t feel comfortable doing this job, please do not open the laptop or you can permanently damage your computer. Take your laptop to a professional repair shop instead.
Use this repair guide at your own risk. :)

For this repair you’ll need the following tools.

1. Soldering iron or soldering station. I use Weller WES51 soldering station and for this job I set temperature to about 800-850°F.
2. I use high-tech rosin core silver-bearing solder from Radioshack with diameter 0.022″ ( Catalog #: 64-013 ). I think standard rosin core solder will work just fine.
3. Desoldering pump for removing solder around component leads. I use Edsyn Soldapullt pump, model DS 017.
4. 99% isopropyl alcohol and tooth brush for cleaning the motherboard from flux.
5. A new DC power jack.

DC jack repair tools

Laptop DC power jack repair guide.

Laptop DC power jack

As you see on the following picture, the solder drop on the positive terminal looks different than on other three contacts. That’s where the problem is. The positive pin is not making a good contact with the motherboard and because of that power to the laptop cuts off when I move the power plug inside the power jack.
I’m going to desolder the power jack from the motherboard, clean contacts on both power jack and motherboard and then solder it back in place – this is the proper way fixing the power problem.

DC power jack bottom side

Start desoldering process with adding some new fresh solder to all three contacts. This will make old solder more flowable, easier to remove.

Removing solder

While heating one of the contacts, remove the solder from this contact using the desoldering pump. Repeat the same steps with all power jack contacts until you remove as much solder as possible.

Sucking extra solder

Grab the power jack and carefully try removing it from the motherboard. Most likely you will not be able to remove the power jack the first time because there will be some solder bridges left between the contacts and traces on the motherboard. Carefully wiggle the power jack without applying any significant force and at the same time heat up all contacts one by one. This will help you to remove the power jack.

Remove DC power jack

The DC power jack is almost removed from the motherboard.
Be careful. Inside the positive hole there is a copper sleeve which connects the terminal on one side of the motherboard with the traces on the other side. If you are removing the power jack with force, you can pull the sleeve from the hole. You don’t want to do that.

UPDATE: If you accidentally removed the internal sleeve, check out this post: How to fortify damaged power jack connection.

So, do not apply any force and make sure the solder is melted when you are removing the power jack. I hope you understand what I’m talking about.

Separating jack from motherboard

After the power jack is removed, clean all oxidized contacts with a knife.

Cleaning power jack contacts

Apply a fresh coat of solder to all contacts on the power jack.

Coating contacts

The power jack terminals will look dirty because of melted flux.

Flux on motherboard

You can remove the flux using the tooth brush and alcohol. It’s not necessary but it will make your job looking clean.

Removing extra flux

Apply a fresh coat of solder to all power jack terminals on both sides of the motherboard.

Coating contacts

This side has been coated.

Cleaned contacts side 1

And this side has been coated too.

Cleaned contacts side 2

Now you can install the power jack back on the motherboard. Put something under power jack so there is no gap between the jack and the motherboard. Now you are ready to solder the jack back in place.

DC power jack installed

Solder all power jack pins.

Soldering power jack

The job is done and the laptop DC power jack is fixed. B-E-A-utiful!
Now just install the motherboard back into the laptop and you are done.

DC power jack fixed

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  1. 513
    tonyblitz1 Says:

    Is there any way to improve or reinforce the jack so that a stray bump doesn’t break it all over again?

  2. 512
    Naji Says:

    I’m repairing my Asus A53S DC Jack. I’m just about done, but the power socket is so close to an adjacent ethernet port that I have yet to solder the last connection without soldering the two together.

    In other words: one of the connections of the DC jack for the asus a53s is practically touching the connection to the adjacent ethernet port.

    Can anyone confirm that these two are supposed to be directly connected? If no one knows, is there another place on the web I can post my question to?

  3. 511
    cj2600 Says:

    @ Mirko F,

    This DC jack is not a simple one. The problem still could be related to the DC jack harness.
    I would buy a new DC jack and plug it into the motherboard for test. If still no power, probably there is a problem with the motherboard.

    Also, I would test the laptop with another AC adapter just in case. It’s possible the AC adapter not working properly under load. I’ve seen it happening before.

  4. 510
    Mirko F. Says:

    Thanks very much for this article. My girlfriend just gave me her HP pavilion dv4 to fix it because it doesn’t recognize when its powersupply is pugged in (white LED next to plug keeps off). I already checked the powersupply, its fine (provides 19.25V) so everything seems to point to a powerjack issue. But just after overviewing the Maintenance and Service Guide, where I noticed that the Powerjack is connected over a cable with the systemboard that pases exactly beneath the Mini Card compartment cover, which I opened now to check connectivity with my multimeter I figuered out that the 19.25V reaches at least its connectors on the systemboard.
    As I don’t feel comfortable messing around with the systemboard, I would like to know if maybe the white LED or its resistor is burned. Should I check that, or is this more likely a systemboard issue, what do you think?

    Thanks for any answer.

  5. 509
    Siraj Says:

    Hi! I really appreciate more power 2 ur elbow.thnx so, much.

  6. 508
    cj2600 Says:

    @ Gordon,

    I think you can use any solder as long as you can melt it with your solder gun.

  7. 507
    Gordon Says:

    I have some 62/36/2 silver bearing solder (.015 diameter)that I used when making audio coax cables. will that work ok for this or should I get the .022 solder?

  8. 506
    ReidoSpeedo Says:

    I haven’t quite decided if I am going to attempt this as a newb on my Asus f50s, but kudos and gratitude to the poster, great and thorough instructions (enough to keep me on the fence about attempting a DIY). While seemingly a small thing, spending the effort out of good will to help save others money and time (and also keep money away from the ones/corporations who already have enough) is straight class. Thanks again

  9. 505
    misterjib Says:

    I tried this on a HP Compac 6510b and failed. The soldering iron wasnt up to scratch and consequently the removal of the old connector was difficult – copper sleeves from the board came away with the broken connector. I tried removing and re-soldering but still no luck. About 8 hours work (i’m a novice) on my failure – I feel like crying. WAAAAAAAAAH!

  10. 504
    mcgrimus Says:

    Successfully replaced the jack on my Acer 5532. I did accidentally remove the copper sleeve on the one connection, but was able to put it onto the new jack. Works fine now. Thanks!

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