In order to replace the power jack in your laptop you’ll have to remove the jack from the motherboard as I explained in the previous post: Replacing DC power jack.
While removing the jack you can accidentally pull out the internal copper coating (I’ll call it a sleeve) from the inside of the “+” terminal as it shown on the picture below.
The internal copper sleeve has been removed and cannot be installed back. If you solder the power jack back on the motherboard without this sleeve it might work but the connection between the “+” lead and motherboard will not be reliable.
In the following guide I explain how to fortify a damaged power jack connection. You can use this repair technique in some laptops with similar power jacks.
You can remove the copper sleeve from the power jack with a soldering guy and through it away. You cannot install this sleeve back into the terminal on the motherboard.
Find a small resistor or capacitor with thin leads. Cut off one of the leads. I’m going to use it to fortify the connection between the power jack and motherboard.
Shape the lead as it shown on the picture below.
Put the lead on the “+” connector on the power jack.
Solder the lead to the power jack.
Now I’m going to modify the “+” terminal on the PCB. Even though on the picture below it looks normal, it’s damaged inside (the internal coating has been removed).
Carefully scrape off green varnish around the whole on the “+” terminal on the PCB. You can use a small flathead screwdriver.
If the whole is not big enough for your modified power jack, you can widen it with an awl.
As you see on the picture below the whole on the terminal has been widened. Apply a fresh coat of solder on the clear area of the trace.
Install the power jack assembly on the motherboard. Make sure there is no gap between the jack and motherboard.
Here’s a view from the top side of the PCB.
Solder all pins except the modified “+” pin.
Now, when the power jack is secured, you can shape the lead as it shown on the picture below.
Solder the lead to the terminal. Remove excessive flux with an old tooth brush soaked in 99% alcohol.
Here’s a view from the bottom side of the motherboard.
Be very careful. Doing this modification you can damage the motherboard and make it unusable. Proceed on your own risk.
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December 9th, 2008 at 4:53 pm
Hi.
first off all many compliments for the site.
I’ve found it ’cause I have a serius problem with an Aspire 9100.
I hope you will be so gentle to try to help me.
So …. My friends had a Power Jack problem, the electricity didn’t work
even if the “pin jack” of the DC adapter was inserted in the motherboard.
To bypass this problem she started to press the top of the “pin jack” in a really strong way. She was used to left three big and heavy books over the “pin jack” and in this way the battery started charging and the laptos worked also without battery.
But after some time she had to press more, so I decided to try to repair it.
I’ve opened the laptop and decided to take off the powerjack (it was broken the copper sleeve).
Then I scraped off a little quantity of the green varnish around the “+”,
and I solded a cable, bringing this out from the laptop.
Finally I solded two new jack, one to the DC Adapter and one to the cable solded to the motherboard. (I controlled the polarity with a Tester)
But I have a strange problem now!!!!
Even if the electricity passes to the motherboard (I have tested with an “Electricity Tester”) the laptop doesn’t start if the battery is not inserted.
If the battery is inserted, the laptop starts, but the battery doesn’t start charging.
It seems like if the electricity is not working, but as I said I tested it
I have uploaded some photos where you can see the electricity test results.
www flickr com/photos/33223425@N06/
I’m in your hands….
Please, help me or I will be killed by my friend !!!!!
PS:
sorry for my english!!
December 2nd, 2008 at 3:21 pm
Unfortunatly… You could have destroy you’re computer…
The Problem with these jacks is that sometimes they come in special configurations, so even if the are the same saze, and the terminals are in the same place, the Polarity may be inverse.
so you should have made sure the polarity match before putting the new Jack in place,
The fact that you had an electric arc means something shorted.
Also you should take care of not soldering oter componets or phats to ne part that you just scraped….
November 11th, 2008 at 7:33 pm
I recently tried to replace my DC power jack for my Gateway MX6446 laptop (about 2+ years old). After nearly a week of tinkering I found that I was unable to desolder the jack, even with a desoldering braid and vacuum pump, because it had solder on both sides. I physically dismantled the jack, leaving only the pins left on the board. In the process, however, I accidentally removed the entire positive pin including the sleeve. I was able to completely remove the other pins, clean the area, and solder together the solution explained in this article for a new jack. I removed the coating of the board to expose the metal and added fresh solder. I was then able to solder all of the connections on the board.
My problem occurred after reassembling the laptop. When attempting to connect the AC adapter to the jack (simply bringing it close to the jack) there was a quick spark and a visible arc of electricity after which I quickly remove the AC adapter. Is this an indication of a specific problem with my installation? I have included some items below which might be problematic.
-When removing the board coating, the metal and solder was very close (if the solder did not run over and connect with) to a random pre-soldered bead of solder on the board close to the positive pin.
-The positive pin solution protruded a significant distance beyond the original positive pin; could the power jump to other metallic components of the case?
-The power jack, similar to the one in this help page, had numbers on top. I ordered the jack based on its feet configuration, but the numbers did not match my original. Is this a serial number or a product number?
Thanks in advance. I can pass along a photo if necessary, but I am hoping that the arc is something distinctive.
November 10th, 2008 at 11:50 pm
TO Stephen Weeks,
If you can get the manual service for your laptop off the Mfrg. site,that’s big help.But if there’s nothing,then i’m afraid you need to tear you laptop down one piece by one till you reach the bottom of the motherboard alone.And i’m giving you a tip here: try to organize the parts you take out as much as you can ie: put it in the first place for the first piece\cover and correspond ing screws you have remove,the move on the second item+screws….and so on
November 10th, 2008 at 2:09 pm
I have an Advent 8111 and the power socket is faulty, I have tried my good power supply from my other Advent laptop and have the same problem, so I know it is with the socket within the laptop and not the power lead.
My question is this, how do I get to the power socket, I have taken the small cover off the bottom of the laptop and can see where the socket is but I need to remove the top of the laptop to get to the socket and I am not sure how to go about it. Can someone instruct me on how to do it.
Regards
Stephen
November 10th, 2008 at 12:25 pm
I have searched the Internet over for a low cost way to reduce the possibility of overheating of a laptop from heat exchanger dust-bunny clog. I have found nothing. One morning it was my turn to make the coffee. There in my hand through half opened eyes I found the answer. The coffee filter. I held the filter to my mouth and breathed. Good air flow. I cut a square and typed it over the underside of my laptop where the CPU fan sucks up the dust off the desk. Works like a champ. There are thousands of laptop filters in the coffee filter bundle and masking tape is low cost also. I can see when the filter needs changing. Problem solved!
Didn’t know where else to post this.
Laptop Willie
check out laptopwillie.com
November 5th, 2008 at 2:01 pm
Faraz, If this is a Dell, You may have a problem I’ve dealt with before. The center pin of the adapter is to tell the computer what adapter is being used. If it is the wrong adapter, the battery will not charge and/or not power the computer. Look on the bottom label plate. It will tell you the proper adapter to use.
November 5th, 2008 at 5:14 am
I bought my laptop a month back, and no it is not new, i bought it used so there is no warranty.
The problem is that it does not charge the battery. When I insert a fully charged battery it works fine, but when i insert the ac adapter it does not charge.
The local repair shops cant find the fault and they have returned it to me.
please suggest something……
November 4th, 2008 at 3:31 pm
I’ve had this problem and read this repair tip and was wondering if you have tried it with a Dell. The center pin on the motherboard is the adapter sensor. I think the contact is between layers. I sure it will work with threw the hole.
November 2nd, 2008 at 11:47 pm
I must say this is a fabulous idea, i (PC tech ) actually tried the same method as you did here with a external lead to re-enforce the DC jack to the mobo but it only lasts a few days, even with my 2nd attempt
Because i think i missed the scrapping part from you lol, now i know the laptop i’m going to repair will last longer
Thanks so much