In order to replace the power jack in your laptop you’ll have to remove the jack from the motherboard as I explained in the previous post: Replacing DC power jack.
While removing the jack you can accidentally pull out the internal copper coating (I’ll call it a sleeve) from the inside of the “+” terminal as it shown on the picture below.

Damaged power jack connection

The internal copper sleeve has been removed and cannot be installed back. If you solder the power jack back on the motherboard without this sleeve it might work but the connection between the “+” lead and motherboard will not be reliable.

In the following guide I explain how to fortify a damaged power jack connection. You can use this repair technique in some laptops with similar power jacks.

Power jack removed with sleeve

You can remove the copper sleeve from the power jack with a soldering guy and through it away. You cannot install this sleeve back into the terminal on the motherboard.

Unsolder sleeve

Find a small resistor or capacitor with thin leads. Cut off one of the leads. I’m going to use it to fortify the connection between the power jack and motherboard.

Shape the lead as it shown on the picture below.

Power jack mounting contact

Put the lead on the “+” connector on the power jack.

Assemble power jack

Solder the lead to the power jack.

Solder mounting leg on power jack

Now I’m going to modify the “+” terminal on the PCB. Even though on the picture below it looks normal, it’s damaged inside (the internal coating has been removed).

Power jack terminals on motherboard

Carefully scrape off green varnish around the whole on the “+” terminal on the PCB. You can use a small flathead screwdriver.

Clean terminal

If the whole is not big enough for your modified power jack, you can widen it with an awl.

Make hole wider

As you see on the picture below the whole on the terminal has been widened. Apply a fresh coat of solder on the clear area of the trace.

Apply fresh solder on terminal

Install the power jack assembly on the motherboard. Make sure there is no gap between the jack and motherboard.

Install power jack

Here’s a view from the top side of the PCB.

Solder all pins except the modified “+” pin.

Power jack installed

Now, when the power jack is secured, you can shape the lead as it shown on the picture below.

Solder five contacts

Solder the lead to the terminal. Remove excessive flux with an old tooth brush soaked in 99% alcohol.

Power jack installed and soldered

Here’s a view from the bottom side of the motherboard.

Power jack view from top

Be very careful. Doing this modification you can damage the motherboard and make it unusable. Proceed on your own risk.

 

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92 Responses to “How to fortify damaged power jack connection in a laptop”

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  1. 52
    cj2600 Says:

    frankie,

    i have a c640 with s faulty powerjack
    i replaced it with an other one but still no power.
    (he powers up with the docking and battery though)
    is it a fuse issue? if yes , wich one?

    I cannot tell if the problem is related to the fuse or not, but you should search for a fuse located somewhere close to the jack. Test it with a multimeter.

  2. 51
    frankie Says:

    hi,

    this site is very usefull
    i have a c640 with s faulty powerjack
    i replaced it with an other one but still no power.
    (he powers up with the docking and battery though)
    is it a fuse issue? if yes , wich one?

    thanx thanx thanx

  3. 50
    aslam Says:

    good morning sir
    my probloms ihave a lap hp compaq nx 7300
    formatt systome all install drivers last i nstall wrong bios
    restart sysatom now dosnt working screen?

    blank screen

    plz
    hlp me

  4. 49
    cj2600 Says:

    paul wilmarth,

    can you use drill bit to remove old jack

    I wouldn’t do that. You can damage the motherboard. Use soldering gun instead.

  5. 48
    paul wilmarth Says:

    can you use drill bit to remove old jack

  6. 47
    debbie Says:

    Hi

    My husband just had to repair my Dc jack on my acer 8930G the soldering was terrible, however we did not have any shrink wrap to put back on will this matter, the other problem is the length of cable they have left is so very very small it only just makes it to the connection, it was the black cable which had come adrift.

    All seems to be working ok.

    Thanks A Mil

  7. 46
    mat Says:

    hi

    my nx 7300 has a problem …

    everythings perfect in baterry mode

    BUT

    when i plug the power jack, it runs slower BUT A LOT !!

    has anyone had this problem before ?

    i took a look at the power jack and it seems to be ok …

    cheers

    M@T

  8. 45
    Steve Says:

    How much do laptop repair stores usually charge to resolder or replace the DC power jack? I’ve never disassembled a laptop before so I plan on taking my laptop to a computer/laptop repair store.

  9. 44
    Tom Evans Says:

    I recently bought a Dell Inspiron 5150 whose dc jack was completely ripped from the motherboard, I mean completely desoldered. Unfortunately, he copper sleeve which surrounds the adapter sensor pin, not the positive pin in this case, came off as well. I bought a new jack through eBay and resoldered it in place. Some trace metal surrounding the sensor hole remained on the top of the motherboard, but on the bottom there is no metal to solder the sensor pin to. Are you aware of any other location on the motherboard where I can solder a wire to complete the circuitry for the the sensor pin? Thanks for your help.

  10. 43
    Brian Young Says:

    (Sorry for the cross-post, mods, but I’m hoping for fast feedback!)

    This site has been so helpful, as I solder and re-solder my Toshiba A60/65. Long story short, the copper “plug” had a crack, so I used the guide to “fortifying” the damaged jack, and now I have a new issue:

    When I plug in the power supply to test, it (the power supply, not the laptop) beeps repeatedly (short-circuit, most likely). I’ve checked the board for stray solder, and find nothing, so, here’s my favor:

    Can someone with a similar lappy test continuity between the different parts of the DC jack? Even without disassembly, take the battery out, and let me know if you get continuity between the main pin and the pins that connect to the exterior of the plug.

    When testing the jack itself, off the machine, I get no continuity between any of the pins (except the 4 that hold it to the board, which is the same piece of metal). When it’s on the board, or when testing the board itself, I get continuity between ALL the points (main pin, middle pin, and 4 outer pins). I can’t imagine that is correct — any suggestions/feedback? TIA!

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